125cc Sportsbikes Forum: 125cc Sportsbikes Forum -> Aprilia RS125

Ill start then..

no new picts but meh

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m156/Djantty/100_0757.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m156/Djantty/DSC00082.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m156/Djantty/DSC00081.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m175/pauljdsg/100_0312.jpg

http://file026b.bebo.com/13/large/2007/04/10/22/21017254a4069095138b732418955l.jpg

http://file030b.bebo.com/14/large/2007/04/11/18/21017254a4076641252b18860565l.jpg

I copied the idea of the RS125 owners map from Yamaha R125 forum.

Just tell me your location and eventually bike year and I'll add it to the map.

Aprilia RS125 Owners map



**Message from the Moderating Team, for security reasons only post the first half of your postcode, any replies that do not contain a postcode, model etc. will be removed, so please think before posting.

Really sorry to be a pain in the arse, but the workshop manual links dont work, does anyone happen to have downloaded it or have a copy???

Please send to me at 'simjea@blueyonder.co.uk' any other manuals/files that may be helpful cant be sent too, I have loads of web space and good bandwidth so I will host the files and post up the links

Thanks guys.



ps. as im a noob, does the rotax 122 manual also serve the 123? or is their a seperate one?? please help lol need the 123

CDI Derestriction
The Aprilia RS125 comes with a CDI restriction. It retards ignition around 6000rpm so the bike can pass EU emission tests so they can be manufactured. This makes your bike perform very poor at 6000rpm and does not let the engine pull. Derestricting this will invalidate your warranty. If you bike is in warranty the best thing to do is buy another CDI and derestrict this and use it on your bike.

Derestricting the CDI?The CDI is a black box under the passenger seat. Therefore to get to it you will need to remove the tail of the bike. The easiest way to do this is to remove the rear side fairings with the tail. See the manual for more details.
The CDI will have a serial number on it? if the serial number is in the following format 071000-XXXX-XXXXX then this derestriction will work if done correctly (may still work on others).

You will need to cut out a hole in the CDI to reach the bridge. Cut out a rectangle 30mm by 10mm and 5-10mm deep.
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/1.jpg
You will see a part of a circuit board, snap this. This is known as the bridge. (If you reach glass it means you have dug too far!)
Once you have snapped the bridge, fill your hole back in with silicone, make sure its waterproof! Now there will be no environmental dip between 5000-6000rpm.

Here is a detailed diagram...
http://www.angelfire...di-instruct.jpg

Full Power Derestriction
The Aprilia RS125 can be restricted so its learner legal, and then derestricted to full power (claimed 33bhp). To do this you will need the following items:

o RAVE controller
o Powervalve blade
o Solenoid
o Cable

If your RS125 is restricted then it will not get a significant power increase around 8000rpm. If you know the powervalve is installed but you are still not getting this increase ensure all parts are working correctly, connected, and the solenoid is set correctly.

What does the powervalve do?
The blade of powervalve goes in the barrel of the engine. This then moves up and down to increase and decrease the exhaust outlet size to give you different performances at different rev ranges. The more revs you give the bike the more the powervalve blade is pulled by the solenoid and opens the exhaust outlet.
All a solenoid is, is an electromagnetic componet. Bbasically all you need to know is it pulls a cable which is connected to the powervalve blade to pull it out to increase the gap in the exhaust outlet.


You must check your bike for the componets listed above.
Your bike may be restricted via a blanking plate. You can see this by removing your right side fairing and looking above the exhaust. It will be a small plate and have 3 bolts along it (one either side and one in the middle). If you see a blanking plate then you will need to purchase the powervalve blade, mount, and other parts see parts diagram below... Your probably best getting a gasket for it too even though there is one on the blanking plate... you can reuse them but to ensure the bike performs well and you dont get any problems get a new one...
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/2.jpg
Once you have aquired these parts remove your blanking plate and fit the powervalve into the bike.
Note, the powervalve goes in one way!
It has a tapered end on one side, this should face downwards, and the flat side of the powervalve blade should face upwards! Ensure you do this!
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/3.jpg

If you can see the powervalve mount sticking out the exhaust then you will not need to purchase it of course and you will see something like this above the exhaust...
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/4.jpg

Remove your tank...
To the right of the battery there should be a solenoid which should have a cable connected on the end of it. The cable connects to the powervalve blade that goes into the engine that we looked at before.
It should look something like this altogether...
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/5.jpg
If you do not see the solenoid and/or cable then you will need to purchase these.
Once you have purchase these parts mount them to the right of the battery, there is a place for it to be fitted, it goes on the part of the radiator frame that goes right next to the battery.

If you see the solenoid and cable, and you see the powervalve mounted in the engine but your bike is not performing as it should... then it may be a case that the solenoid is not connected! If you look on the picture above there is a connector block on the end of the solenoid, see if this is connected, it connects to the main loom which runs along the right hand side of the bike from the front all the way to the back of the bike.
If you connect it up and it does nothing then keep reading....

Remove the passenger seat and check for the RAVE unit. (just remove the two back side fairings and tail)
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/6.jpg

If you cannot see this, then you will need to buy one of these and fit it to your bike. There will be a spare connector block coming out of the main loom were it should be connected to. Once you have fitted all these parts your bike should be derestricted!!!

All you need to do now is to set your solenoid up correctly... It has adjuster nuts on it, so the cable can be adjusted. This is because the solenoid starts acting around 3000rpm (you can see the solenoid opening when you rev the bike to this with the tank off). The more the powervalve blade sits in the exhuast the better low range power you will have, but poor top end. This works vise versa. See how to adjust your solenoid below...
http://www.125ccsportsbikes.com/forums/uploads//post-9-1093176496.jpg

WARNING: WHEN YOU DERESTRICT YOUR BIKE YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUG OTHERWISE YOU WILL BLOW A HOLE IN YOUR PISTON. Despite what the manual says, the spark plug to use when your bike is full power (powervalve installed) is a BR10EG. This is because the plug is colder. When your bike is restricted you should run a BR8EG. You can change these plugs for other versions e.g. Denso plugs, Iridium plugs for smoother running.


Exhuast Derestriction
The later bikes 2003 onwards have a CAT in the expansion chamber. In the expansion chamber not the end can. To get rid of this CAT which makes your bike perform differently, get an after market expansion chamber (best buying the end can with it) or buy an earlier expasion chamber from an RS125 or take the expansion chamber off and be prepared to cut it open, remove the CAT and weld it back together.

If you are going to buy a different expasion chamber then you will have to rejet your carb. The bikes with a CAT in them are set to run rich (more oil) because the CAT requires the bike to run like this. Therefore you will need to buy a standard main jet for your carb. If you have a 28mm carb (finally got it right I normally say 26mm) then your standard main jet size is a 120. If your carb is a 34mm your main jet is more likely to be a 158(i think) You can get these for a couple of quid. This means taking your carb off and removing the old main jet, and replacing it with a new one.
The racers tend to use the standard expasion chamber because it is thicker then aftermarket ones therefore contains the heat more, and these work better with more heat. They normally just change the end can.

Removing your CAT (if your being a big man)
You will need to take your expasion chamber off the bike (see manual if you dont know how)
You need to cut your expansion chamber open where this fella is cutting it and where the white line is indicated...http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/7.jpg

Once you have done this you will be able to remove the CAT
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/8.jpg

Thats it really, dont know too much about it because I havent done it... Just weld your expasion chamber back up with the CAT removed, give it a respay (heat resistant of course) because they tend to rust like hell even if you dont ride your bike in the wet.
http://flexiweb.atspace.com/rs125/10.jpg
The expasion chamber doesnt really have anything in it anyway if your thinking this was too simple. Literally just cut it open, remove the CAT and weld it back together.

Some exhausts also have a recirculation tube that goes to the air box. You just have to cut this off and weld it up and seal up the air box.
The snorkel in the air box can be taken out too, this will let some more air in slightly and make your bike sound a lot better. Just pull the rubber out the top, or you can cut the part that sticks out. This shouldnt affect your jetting since the bike is not jetted correctly from standard anyways. If you want to be sure stick a bigger main jet in (121 on a 28mm carb). Do a plug chop to confirm. To do a plug chop see the pinned topics... under useful RS125 information.

Carbouretter
The older bikes had a 34mm carb on. The new ones have a 28mm carb. I think it was the 98's that had the 34mm carb on then after that unless modified it was a 28mm carb. If you want better mid range power, and a better top end without affecting your petrol consumption too much get a 34mm carb. The petrol consumption is suprisingly good, it does guzzle more but you get that back in power!

All you have to do is get hold of a Deloroto VHSB 34MM and a new inlet manifold because the original will be to small and then fit it onto your bike. The standard air filter will still fit this new carb.



Well thats basically it. Your bike is derestricted...
Mods to follow to make your bike faster and all round better performance...

Just because we get a few pepole who have just got an RS and dont know what the bike is about, and those who are unsure or getting one because they think its "unreliable" etc...

Purchasing an RS125.

Well what are you looking for?

When buying an RS125 you have to be aware of the following:
They are not unreliable bikes, forget all the myths you have heard, even with all the posts on this forum with broken bikes that?s what a lot of people come on here for, forget all that rubbish. These are solid bikes. They are one of the most highly tuned road bikes, the Yamaha R1 produces 150 hp per litre (engine capacity), while your RS125 produces a massive 250 hp per litre.

I will not mention how to derestrict your bike in this topic, just how to look for a good RS and identify factors in the bike those aren?t problems!

Firstly when you?re looking at a bike, check it?s mileage like any bike. Be aware in the RS125 manual, it suggests you check your piston rings at 9,000km and change the piston and rings at 16,000km. So if it?s past these mileages ensure that this has been done by the previous owner. It?s not a vital thing, but if it?s past 16,000km you should change piston and rings and a lot of experienced RS owners would do so. There are arguments and evidence that they last for over 30,000km, some still going from when they were made but I wouldn?t take the chance.
Its cheaper to change a few rings and a piston then changing the barrel, possibly bottom end parts e.g. con rod if it seizes which two strokes are known for doing.
Plus you?ll ensure that you bike stays on the road and your getting the best performance.

You will know a good RS when you see one. It will have been looked after properly. E.g. chain and sprockets are in decent condition, just the general condition of the bike. Self explanatory really.

You should also note, you should definitely use the best and nothing but the best 2 stroke oil in your RS. Something like Castrol TTS, which is typically ?11 a bottle (1 litre). Expensive yes, but cheap compared to stripping you engine and replacing main bearings etc due to using poor 2 stroke oil.

Top end rebuilds are common as I have mentioned, e.g. every 16,000km change your piston and rings. Therefore you must be handy with tools, if not get your local bike shop to do it but again remember this can be expensive. Its not a hard job really and you?ll learn a lot about your bike if your handy with tools.

If you are purchasing a full power bike it will have a power valve in it. This is a mechanism that makes the exhaust outlet wider and narrower as the revs increase and decrease giving the best performance. The blade that moves in the barrel (cylinder) can sometimes get stuck. You should remove the power valve blade regularly and clean it to ensure it does not get stuck.

The older bikes e.g. 1998 were the most powerful bikes manufactured As the years have gone by more restrictions have been put on this bike to pass emissions tests. If your testing a RS125 and you notice a terrible splutter around the 6000rpm mark this is the first restriction. This is a CDI restriction, which retards the ignition when at this rpm. This can easily be removed so it is not a problem with the bike.

Another factor which restricts the bike is some have a CAT in the exhaust. This can be removed by splitting open the expansion chamber and removing it then welding it back together or purchasing an expansion chamber without one in. This can either be after market expansion chambers e.g. Arrow, JL or just a standard Aprilia one from a different year.

If the bike doesn?t get a significant power increase around 8000rpm then this bike is learn legal at 17 with a cbt. The bike can be fully derestricted to a claimed 33bhp by installing a power vale that I mentioned earlier.

The earlier bikes had a 34mm carb on them, but they were replaced with 28mm carbs. This means the newer bikes do not get as much mid range power. So if your test riding different years beware of this. You can always get hold of a 34mm carb and manifold inlet and put this straight on to the bike without any extra parts to get that performance.

Mods. If you get to an RS and its not standard make sure its been set up correctly. If you notice its got a fancy air filter on there make sure it has been jetted accordingly by the owner. If not the bike could be running lean! This is very bad, meaning a seizure is very likely when a bike is running lean. If you notice a different exhaust and expansion chamber, make sure it has been jetted. As if it originally had a standard expansion chamber with a CAT in it, it will be running far too rich. Not a bad things, just the bike wont run as well and the carb will have to be rejetted.

You may hear in a lot of adverts that the bike has had a full engine rebuild just recently. When I first got into the RS125 I was wondering why. Why did people rebuild their bikes even if it didn?t seize! It made me very suspicious of the advertiser. However, as I mentioned before, these bikes do need to be rebuild after so many miles. If its had a full engine rebuild recently and you know the work is good e.g. receipts to prove the work or the owner sounds like a convincing D.I.Y person then it?s a positive really. However, make sure they have used decent parts. You can get pistons for ?18, however I wouldn?t stick this in a lawn mower. Make sure they have used genuine Aprilia parts or decent aftermarket ones e.g. Mitaka. They are bikes off the track, just look at a formula one car, they last for 2hours or 200miles and the engine has done its job. The RS125 is similar, its so highly tuned from standard it needs rebuilds more then normal road engines because its a race bike!

Ensure the owner has treated the bike well. If you go on a test run and the bike feels cluttered maybe they aren?t a confident rider, just give the bike a good blast and it will soon clear up.

That?s about it really. Just because they owner is a boy racer doesn?t mean the bike is thrashed. As long as its clean, and you have looked around the bike well and noted my points you should have no problems. If maintenance has been followed you should get yourself a nice bike. You may want to have a quick look in the manual and see the type of work that has to be done. It may sound like loads now, but its honestly not much. Adjust the chain here and there, clean the power valve now and again, top end rebuild after 16,000km and full engine rebuilds every so many years really.

These are very very fun bikes! Once your on them you?ll love them. It?s a 125 enjoy it, throw it around the corners, remember the RS was voted the 2nd best handling bike made! Hope you get a good one!

hey guys
just traded my 09 ninja 250r in for an rs 125. need i explain why? anyway i have a few questions....

1. being in australia, what hp does mine come with? 14hp or above? ive heard that these are the unrestricted ones as the restricted ones almost killed sales couple of years back.
2. sitting at a set of lights for a long time do you switch off engine or keep blipping it?
3. break in is a pain! when can i go over 6000rpm?
4. other than an exhaust, what other mods for performance do you recommend?

thanks for any help.

Lucas.

Hi all.

My bike has started playing up of late.
Compression is a wee bit lower but it is still between 110 and 120 psi so no need for anything renewing just yet.
I'm also having major problems starting my bike up from cold.
I blew in the air filter and bingo, back to life, there was nothing in the filter obstructing anything though?
Wonder what it could be?
I''m going to renew my petrol hose as i think after the freeze we have just had, might be knackered.
I've noticed rattling and weird grizzing noises at times and sometimes not.
So now i want to put my rs in for a service.
But when/if i do put it in for a service.
What exactly do they check does anyone know?

Thanks

Hello. I just bought brand new carb from pjme for my RS 125 2006.

So i will be running Ram-air filter, Vforce3 reedvalve system, 34mm carb, and Jollymoto SP corsa pipe. (needle is k57 (i think thats OK?!))

Any1 got experience which mainjet i should use or which size should be my first, where to start jetting?

thanks!

i want to start racing on a track and i just want to know is the rs125 a good bike to race with and the good and bad point of a rs125 race bike and do you know of a track in suffolk

HELLO I WAS MESSING ABOUT TRYING TO DO A BURN OUT AND IT BACK FIRED SO I TURNED THE ENGINE OFF WENT TO START UP AGEN AND IT WONT START,ITS BACKFIRING WEN TRYING 2 START. WHAT COULD IT BE ANY IDEAS

Today after my work I started my bike, no problems. I let the bike to warm up a bit at idle speeds.. then.. puff... engine stopped for no reason and I was not able to start it again.

In a bloody public car park I checked the plug and it was all wet. I had no damn rag to clean it (I didn't have a spare spark plug with me). I cleaned it a bit somehow and it even started but was running only for 5 seconds to die again. I gave up trying as my battery is not the best in the world. I rang my wife and asked her to come to my work and bring 2 spark plugs with her (actually it's the second time she had to come to my work with the plugs, previous incident happened a few months ago). She said something like "not this sh*t again" Anyway once I fitted a new plug the bike started without problems, I could warm up the engine and go.

Everything seems to be set up perfectly and bike was running with no problems, but still it can foul a plug sometimes. Is it just a 2-stroke thing? RS125 is an awful commuter.

I need a 4-stroke with fuel injection as my second bike. Only then I think I can expect reliability.

So...

After a nightmare breakdown last week in which I found out I no longer have brekdown cover and just how sh*t the battery is on my phone. I managed to take the head off and inspect the damage .........Well the piston has a massive chunk out of it, the cylinde has chunks out of the exhaust port, the cylinder head looks like someone has taken a hammer to it and worst of all I now have to clean and rebuild the bottom end . I will post pictures when I get home.

I was planning to rebuild the engine next month but now I have too! This might seem like a bit of a pointless thread but it's really just for me to ask a few silly question and a bit of advice on what I need to do.

First off i'd like to say Hi, as i'm new to the forum! I was wondering if anybody at all could help me out with some problems i'va had with my rs125. I recently noticed it was running low on compression, although before i decided to check the barrel/rings etc i thought i'd have a quick look at my reeds to see what state they were in. Upon inspection i found that i was missing half of one of my reeds! So obviously i bought a set of new ones, but my bike still had no compression. Anyway today i took the barrel off to find a burnt patch on the top of the piston and a massive gauge down the side of it and part of the piston has pinched the rings so they can't come out/move at all.

But basically my questions are:
1. Would a broken reed have done this to my poor piston? (Considering I had a full engine re-build 200miles ago!)
2. Are Vertex pistons any good for their bees and honey?
3. Could someone please explain why their are different size pistons within .01 of a millimeter? (for eg 53.97mm, 53.98mm,53.99mm)


Thanks in advance to anyone with any help what so ever!

Max.

hi, does anyone know if any year of powervalve will fit my 08 euro 3 rs 125?
cheers.

Hi, first post but anyway just bought a aprillia rs 125 2002 with 5081 miles but it has been stood for most of its life (3/7 years) and most recently 2 years, i have 5 weeks to do it up (my 17th birthday). the engine sounds great and put new oil in and warmed up today and sounds good but was wondering what people with more knowlage thought i should do to make it up to standard, thanks ell

Hi
I have a 2000 model rs 125 i would like to make it easier to ride around town by reducing my front sproket size, i currently have 17 teeth front and was thinking of going down to 14 teeth has anyone tried this? also how much top end would i lose??

Hi there, I'm looking for info on the RS125 GP1, can't seem to find much. I'm just getting back into biking after a few years and bought a GP1 2002 6500Kms FSH full power(I think), but I've heard stories that it's 33bhp as standard and can still be de-restricted, I think it's nonsence because it's the rotax 122 engine which I think is a standard engine on the rs's and it really takes off after 8000rpm which makes me think it's already de-resticted, but it does'nt want to go over 110mph(on a private road of course), although I'm happy with that I would like to do a track day and would like a little more.

Any info or links will be most apreciated.
Thanks
Newbee Guvsy

Thought I better start a new thread my idle problem has turned into more a smoking issue!! My bike is bellowing out white/blue smoke with a high idle that cant be adjusted (4K) the bike isn't loosing any coolant but does seem to be losing gearbox oil with no leaks!? I have just finished rebuilding the engine and have replaced just about everything! Could it be the oil seals leaking or maybe even the gasket crankcase halves gasket? It start and runs quite well but will bog above 7K. Really hope the motor doesn't have to come out again!

my bike wont idle and i have tryed fiddling with the carb and it still wont idle and i wont know why so can you plz help


thx

I have an Aprilia RS125 and recently carried out a top end rebuild by myself, just replaced the piston and the top end bearings.

Ever since I put it all back together I've been plagued with problems, such as:-

1)The electrics are ridiculous, they don't work at all when the battery is connected regardless of whether the bike is running or not, and they DO work (lights, indicators etc...) when the battery is disconnected when the bike is bump started. (Could someone please tell me how to connect the battery up correctly, i.e. which terminals do the 2 red wires and the green/brown wire go to.)

2)Next problem ties into (1), the starter motor isn't working. The battery, I assume, is fully charged as I left it on charge for about 8 hours before I put it in. I don't think the battery is flat though because usually you get a clicking coming from a starter relay when the battery is flat. It just seems like the bike is dead. When the bike is running the starter motor still wont work.

3)Its overheating. I can bump start it and run it for a few minutes after which time it starts to overheat, I get scared or wrecking the engine and knock it off. I'm really not sure with this one, I can say that none of the pipes are blocked and neither is the radiator, however I'm not sure if the impeller is working. I really was meticulous when I was putting the engine back together so I can also pretty surely say that the gaskets and things are okay. Also, after I stop the bike, I open the coolant tank, and the coolant is stone cold, like its not even been round the engine.


I'm absolutely coming to the end of my tether with this bike, it seems like its just one problem after another, I do have a Haynes manual but its not been much help so far.

Its a '94 RS125 extrema with a 123 engine. Restricted.

i've bought rs 125 2009 euro 3... new model with 23 hp... and i have about 2200 km... i wanted to derestrict it and my dealer and service said that i cant get it to 30 hp as older models have... with this i was able to do 85mph.. but my friend has 2007 and he is smoking me with about 100mph... what could i do with this???? is it true i cant derestrict it???? please help...

So i was washing my RS (2009) the other day and i looked at it from the side and though to myself, "those mirrors are f**king ugly"

Can't find any good looking aftermarket mirrors so i've been looking at alternatives from other bikes that may fit.

Whilst it may not seem worthwhile, i'm looking to make mine stand out somewhat and am also thinking about a small Tricolore colour scheme.

Any ideas??...........

Just trying to get the carb set up right, certain revs it just doesn't like around mid range. Is anyone else using a 155 kit? What kind of jetting do you have.

Cheers.

Sorry, but I'm up to my ass in dirty oil and gunk, and I haven't got time to search the forums to see if this has already been answered, but my powervalve has got a rubber sheath thing over where you undo the cable to remove the blade. It doesn't look like it'll pull back; it looks attached at both the powervalve junction end and the cable end. Is it okay to carefully cut it off? The Haynes manual picture doesn't even have one.
Thanks, and sorry.

i was looking at the 154cc kit i just want to know are they worth the money and how much will it put down the reliably of the bottem end and how much power increase do you get from them and how easy are they to fit and getting running right with the 34mm carb


thanks