Cagiva Mito - A beginer's Guide/Useful links

Cagiva Mito – A beginner’s guide

Thought I’d write this post to let all the new comers to the world of Mito’s in on some of the basics and commonly asked questions. This is by no means a definitive guide just some useful info,

Firstly please Search the forum before you post, its very unlikely you have a problem that hasn’t been covered before, it gets really annoying trawling through 20 almost identical threads to find a bit of info, lets keep it all together and on topic please! Some off the old threads are the most interesting and you’ll always learn something new this way.

Everyone on this forum will do there best to help you out, just please help yourself first by searching.

Moan over, so lets start with some History;

The original Mito MK1 was launched in 1989. followed by the MK2 a few years later and then the Evolution in 1994, Styled by Massimo Tamburini with similar lines to the then new Ducati 916 (a design he also penned). The similarity is particularly visible in the front and rear fairings.
The Cagiva Mito was the first bike of Valentino Rossi, eventual 7 time Moto GP world champion. In 1994, Rossi had been provided a factory Mito by Cagiva team manager Claudio Lusuardi and cruised to the Italian title.
Various different models have been released including more track biased versions with up rated suspension and higher tuned engines, These are know as the SP models, the last one, The SP525 was released 2005/6 and produced a claimed 37bhp,
All sp models are rare as rocking horse Sh*t, if you’ve got one you’re a lucky bugger.
There are two types of Mito Evolution the Evo1 with three spoke wheels (early ones had a 35mm Mikuni TM35 carb as standard and a 7 speed gearbox)
The EVO 2 has the six spoke wheels, a 6 speed box, and a slightly different design of speedo (yellow rim around it)
Again a quick search reveals all the differences.
Please note ALL body work is the same between Evo’s of all years just the paint schemes changed.

Tech Spec

All specifications are for the current Mito 125 Evo - and are manufacturer claimed and estimated

Engine
• Type: Liquid-cooled, two-stroke single cylinder
• Capacity: 124.63 cc
• Bore/Stroke: 56.0 x 50.6 mm
• Compression Ratio (closed port): 7.4:1
• Fuel System: 28 mm Dell'Orto PHBH 28BD Carburettor /Mikuni TM35 (early models)
• Exhaust System: Expansion chamber with Cagiva Torque System valve
• Ignition: Electronic C.D.I
Transmission
• Primary Drive: Gear
• Final Drive: Chain
• Clutch: Wet, multiplate type
• Gearbox: 6-speed - constant mesh gear type; also 7 speed gear box with earlier models.
Cycle Parts
• Frame: Aluminum double extruded beam with cast head pipe and cast rear plates; transverse steering damper
• Swingarm: Banana
• Front Wheel: Grimeca light alloy 6-spoke, 17 x 3.00 in
• Rear Wheel: Grimeca light alloy 6-spoke, 17 x 4.00 in
• Front Tyre: 110/70 ZR 17
• Rear Tyre: 150/60 ZR 17
• Front Suspension: Marzocchi 40 mm upside down forks
• Rear Suspension: Sachs Progressive Monoshock, adjustable for preload
• Front Brakes: Brembo single Ø 320 mm fixed disc, Brembo 4 piston floating caliper
• Rear Brakes: Brembo single Ø 230 mm fixed disc, Brembo single piston fixed caliper
Dimensions
• Length: 1980 mm (77.9 in)
• Width (w/mirrors): 760 mm (29.9 in)
• Height: 1100 mm (43.3 in)
• Seat Height: 760 mm (29.9 in)
• Wheelbase: 1375 mm (54.1 in)
• Rake: 25 º
• Trail: 98 mm
• Weight (Dry): 129 kg
• Fuel Tank Capacity: 14 L
Performance
(measured at crankshaft) note these are claimed figures.
• Maximum Power: >33 bhp (>22 kW) @ 10,500 rpm
• Maximum Torque: 15 ft•lbf (21 Nm) @ 11,000 rpm
• Top speed is around 100mph derestricted.

Some common questions asked by new owners

“the oil light comes on when I’m in neutral”-- Perfectly normal its like that so you can see the light is still working.

“What oil should I use” -- fully synthetic only!! Most prefer Castrol TTS don’t use the £2.99 own brand crap, u’ll just be spending £££ on a rebuild very soon.

“What Exhaust is better….” The Sin question, don’t ask it ever. No one really knows as no one has done back to back dyno runs with them all to compare. You’ve got 3 main choices Jolly Moto, Arrow, Gianelli. Just go with what you like the look of + can afford.

Tuning

There is a world of bolt-on tuning parts out there ranging from Bigger Carbs, to big bore kits and Exhausts. A quick use of the search button will reveal all, Note it is generally not a good idea to use the K&N style filters, they muck up the fueling and actually in 9/10 cases REDUCE you BHP. They sound nice though.
You can also have your engine tuned by one of the many 2 stroke tuners out there. Ported, polished and skimmed heads its all been done its just a mater of how much you want to spend. Common Mods are an exhaust system, bigger carb and a slight reduction in gear ratio to aid acceleration. Google is your friend here, and the forum search button

Maintenance

'IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT IS' A LOAD OFF NONSENSE...

Maintenance and reliability go hand in hand, if you neglect maintenance your reliability WILL suffer, you have been warned.

The most important part of owning any 2 stroke is Routine servicing, don’t wait for it to stop working as it will cost a lot more to fix then.
Please Please Please download the Relevant WSM (work shop Manual) and read it, Links are provided in the sticky section. Also the owners manual contains all the service intervals and tells you what should be checked / replaced. FOLLOW IT TO THE WORD. Not replacing those piston rings when they should be WILL result in Tears when they make a bid for freedom and destroy your piston, cylinder and main bearings if your really unlucky. £££ to fix, or under £20 for a set off rings? Do the math’s…
These bikes are Generally quite easy to work on so don’t be afraid to do stuff yourself if your comfortable wielding a spanner of two. With the WSM and a bit of logic you can’t go far wrong.

Spares

Parts aren't hard to get hold of, some places to try are

CMP Racing (hosts of this fine site)
MitoMondo
PJ eng
DPS
theres loads again just search the forum

Above all enjoy your new bike and the forum. And post some pics in the gallery!

Cheers

SI

P.S i'm sure someone else can tack on anything i've forgotten to mention!

Part 2: De-restricting the Cagiva Mito

There is already a sticky thread about this subject, I’m just collecting all the info you need and wrapping it up in an easy to follow package for your delectation.
So credit to the members in the original thread will be given if I pinch a photo or two!

Right down to business, this de-restriction guide is based on the Evolution models (almost identical for you raptor/planet owners). I’ve never owned a MK1/2 so I wouldn’t like to say how its done although I seriously doubt there is still one in restricted form.

How’s the Mito restricted?

To start with lets go over some basics your bike is restricted in 3 ways,
1. Air box , the standard air box has small round rubber snorkels, obviously they air restricting the amount of air flow to the carb,
2. The exhaust expansion chamber, A plenum chamber is attached to it near the manifold, this basically ruins the way the exhaust works and is the main reason the bike is restricted.
3. Carb jetting, It is not technically restricting the performance its just set up to run right with the other two restrictions mentioned above. But in derestricted form its way to lean and your motor WILL go pop very quickly.

IMPORTANT ALL THREE RESTRICTIONS MENTIONED ABOVE MUST BE REMOVED AT THE SAME TIME!!!!!!!

You will need:

Parts,
Derestricted air box snorkels, silicone sealant, high temp exhaust paint.And a new set of Jets for the carb. (Optional a sports exhaust system, more on this later)

Tools
W.S.M (workshop manual)
Basic set of metric spanners and sockets,
Hex drivers (Allen Keys)
Angle grinder (or hacksaw and a File)
Mig welder ( or a trip to your local welders!)
Screw drivers
Pliers

Referring to the W.S.M / owners manual at all times if you don’t know how to do something.

Step one

First off we are going to remove the tank it just makes life a lot easier. And only takes 3 mins to do.

Remove the fairings, both sides and then the seat unit.

Step two

Take off the entire exhaust system.

Option 1, using your grinder / hacksaw remove the plenum chamber
Here is a nice pic of the chamber (thanks cagiva4ever)

http://www.motot.net..._hukkaputki.jpg

Clean up where it came off so there is no lip. It’s a bit of a b*tch to get it smooth as the welds are quite thick, but 10 mins with the grinder normally has it good. Don’t throw away the plenum chamber you might need it later.
Cut a patch about 5 mm wider all around than the hole that the plenum chamber has left in your expansion chamber, If you don’t have any suitable mild steel sheet lying around cut it out of the plenum chamber.
Weld the patch over the hole.
Give it a good paint. (why not do the whole thing at the same time if it’s a bit rusty?)
Put the exhaust system back on.
Well done, grab a beer that’s the hard part over!

Option 2, Stick that exhaust on ebay, and put on your shiny new sports exhaust! And then have two beers for being a rich bugger!

Step three

Air box snorkels pull the old round ones out , replace with your de-restricted ones, seal them in with the silicone sealant

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t138/cagivamitoevo/DSC00299.jpg

nice photo showing the de-restriced air box snorkels fitted (thanks cagivamitoevo)

Step four

Change your carb jets
This following section comes from Old Painless

Fitting new (derestricted) jets. Mito Mondo has these on the shelf for quick delivery.

Remove carb, this may require the loosening of the air box and removal of several parts. Use common sense and follow the manual.

Carb is full of petrol, now that it is disconnected and the petrol pipe from the petrol tank is shooting petrol all over your feet turn the petrol tap off.

The carb must be emptied of petrol by turning it over and over a few times, wait until the clear drain tubes run out of petrol to leak onto your new carpet.

Turn carb upside down and remove big brass bolt on the bottom.

Open carb by pulling apart with your hands, do not use tools to separate the metal upper form the plastic base.

Find the jets which are the same size and shape as the new ones, one is on the top next to the float (if the carb is upside down), one is underneath the medium sized jet in the middle, the other is somewhere else i cant remember. Double check sizes and shapes and lengths as i am writing this from memory.

When removing jets use a flat bladed screwdriver which is in good condition, no rounded off edges or you will strip the heads on the jets and make them difficult to remove.

Use the minimum necessary force at all times, remember that brass jets are hollow and weak.

When tightening up jets only tighten them until they seat and a smidge more, and i mean a smidge, all your doing is making sure it will not move, use the minimum force necessary.

When your carb is off the bike it is a good time to clean the petrol filter, this is under the black plastic cap with the big thick black petrol pipe attached to it.
The bolt which holds the cap on over the filter is very, very, very easily stripped.
i say again that the bolt thread is very easily stripped Use a tiny movement to retighten it.

Reassemble and replace.

Final step

Replace all your fairings and fire up your newly unleashed beast.

A wise idea would be to take it gently to start for two reasons, one your not used to it and it could catch you out, two your engines not used to running in the extra 3500rpm its suddenly capable of achieving.

Hope that was helpful

Cheers

Si

125cc Sportsbikes Forum: Cagiva Mito - A beginer's Guide/Useful links - 125cc Sportsbikes Forum

Cagiva Mito - A beginer's Guide/Useful links READ THIS FIRST IF YOUR NEW!

#1 simon d'b

#2 collywog19

#3 rene

#4 collywog19

#5 collywog19

Share this topic:

1 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users

Delete Post

Skin and Language

Execution Stats