[Old Painless]

By special request :

http://www.savefile.com/files/1594722

Feast your eyes people.

I am assuming you don't need a blow-by-blow description although i could do one.

The guide assumes several things: -

You have the following tools-

Basic allen keys, T-bar allens are better
Basic socket set including 17mm and 22mm sockets
Basic screwdriver set including 4mm flat blade and No 2 pozi/philips
Dead blow hammer
Flywheel puller
Protective gloves, many, many pairs
Facilities to avoid getting oil everywhere, newspaper etc
Drain all the fluids before you get a couple of litres of oil and coolant on your carpet
Strip the engine so all you have is the bottom end
Half a day to spare
I ran a tap and die over all the bolts i pulled out and into each hole on the outer casing and engine mounting bolts, also had to drill out and re-tap a snapped bolt in the fairing support bar

A good thing to get would be a decent pair of pieces of wood to block the conrod with as i had to use spanners and screwdrivers, you'll see. Not pretty. 2x1 would do

Its not a perfect guide but it will have to do as its 1.20AM and i just finished taking photos.

4.5 hours from start to finish.

I'm f*cked, off to bed.

Sorry for any spelling mistakes, can't see the screen anymore. lol


Reders, your welcome. :thumbsup:

This post has been edited by lllN30lll: 18 January 2009 - 10:42 AM

[Abc]

The harmonic balancer is interest. Why did you tap and die all the bolts and threads?

[rambo_sil]

your a legend :cheers: d

[nanook]

Thanks for this OP. Downloading now :thumbsup: Although my engine has been running eggcalant for 2 years now I know that one day......

[Reders]

Old Painless, on Jun 7 2008, 12:25 AM, said:

By special request :

http://www.savefile.com/files/1594722

Feast your eyes people.

I am assuming you don't need a blow-by-blow description although i could do one.

The guide assumes several things: -

You have the following tools-

Basic allen keys, T-bar allens are better
Basic socket set including 17mm and 22mm sockets
Basic screwdriver set including 4mm flat blade and No 2 pozi/philips
Dead blow hammer
Flywheel puller
Protective gloves, many, many pairs
Facilities to avoid getting oil everywhere, newspaper etc
Drain all the fluids before you get a couple of litres of oil and coolant on your carpet
Strip the engine so all you have is the bottom end
Half a day to spare
I ran a tap and die over all the bolts i pulled out and into each hole on the outer casing and engine mounting bolts, also had to drill out and re-tap a snapped bolt in the fairing support bar

A good thing to get would be a decent pair of pieces of wood to block the conrod with as i had to use spanners and screwdrivers, you'll see. Not pretty. 2x1 would do

Its not a perfect guide but it will have to do as its 1.20AM and i just finished taking photos.

4.5 hours from start to finish.

I'm f*cked, off to bed.

Sorry for any spelling mistakes, can't see the screen anymore. lol


Reders, your welcome. :thumbsup:

:wink: O P your a Legand in your own time!!!! :angel:

[Old Painless]

Yay, i makes teh people happy. My work here is done.

The Tap and Die was to clean all the threads so it would go back together nice and smoothly, a couple of the threads were a bit butchered and it sorted them out so they all went together like new.

I think it's time i rebuilt it as a ported 125 with an aftermarket filter and sold it to start saving for an R1. Got to have my dream bike before i hit 30. lol


There are propably a couple of stages missing but it was late and my concentration was practically zero. Just remember to make sure everything is undone and all bolts are removed as you strip each part of the engine apart making sure you look at the ends of any bits that stick out, there is a circlip on the gear change shaft that isn't in the pictures i think.

[Jonny]

nice but i wouldn't go holding the rod like that, will end up damaging the coating in the little end bearing housing.

Jonny

[Old Painless]

It's getting a full rebuild mate, the rods coming out anyway.

It was late and i didn't have the correct tools, as i mentioned.

I just phond Prox for a quote on a few bits and bobs including the following:

Mitaka Cylinder set minus poxy piston

Sexy Wiseco Piston :plus:

Conrod kit

Full gasket set

Bearing and Seal set

130 main jet for aftermarket air filter

Iridium plug

£357.15 all in with free delivery, not bad really.

I would prefer an OEM cylinder and i need to source a domed OEM head as my 165 head is machined too large for a 125 cylinder but i guess mito mondo will have the head and want a million quid for the OEM cylinder. Might ask just to be on the safe side. MM ought to do me a cheap deal as i have spent about a grand with him over the years, bought enough parts to build an aircraft carrier. :wub:

Could use a straight through end can as well as mine is multi-chamber, bleh.

If anybody has any of the above kit i need for a decent price i will be ordering from MM and Prox on monday.

Prox don't give discount for forum members, not even me ! How dare she. lol

This post has been edited by Old Painless: 07 June 2008 - 02:13 PM

[collywog19]

Got some decent heads here bud.

Col

[PJ ENGINEERING (PROX)]

Old Painless, on Jun 7 2008, 03:11 PM, said:

It's getting a full rebuild mate, the rods coming out anyway.

It was late and i didn't have the correct tools, as i mentioned.

I just phond Prox for a quote on a few bits and bobs including the following:

Mitaka Cylinder set minus poxy piston

Sexy Wiseco Piston :plus:

Conrod kit

Full gasket set

Bearing and Seal set

130 main jet for aftermarket air filter

Iridium plug

£357.15 all in with free delivery, not bad really.

I would prefer an OEM cylinder and i need to source a domed OEM head as my 165 head is machined too large for a 125 cylinder but i guess mito mondo will have the head and want a million quid for the OEM cylinder. Might ask just to be on the safe side. MM ought to do me a cheap deal as i have spent about a grand with him over the years, bought enough parts to build an aircraft carrier. :wub:

Could use a straight through end can as well as mine is multi-chamber, bleh.

If anybody has any of the above kit i need for a decent price i will be ordering from MM and Prox on monday.

Prox don't give discount for forum members, not even me ! How dare she. lol

How much would one expect to pay for a OEM Cylinder Re-coated and a domed head??

Funny you spent a grand with MM and £0 with me and want discount :rolleyes:

Who is going to fit the rod to your crank?

Yours Paul

[Old Painless]

How much for one of your finest Cylinder Heads collywog ?

The conrod is either going to be fitted by a company in kegworth or you paul, you just don't know it yet. lol

The company in kegworth i cant remember the name of machined my head to 165 size but they did it off centre, the bloody muppets. Supposedly 'engineers' and cant even use a lathe properly.

Is there much difference between an OEM cylinder and a mitaka cylinder ?

As well as the above i noticed on the Prox website where you can compare the piston kit pictures and specs that the single ring and twin ring Wiseco pistons are different sizes but fit the same engine ? The twin ring piston is wider (and more expensive).

As for discounts, i didnt really know your company until it was recommended on here Paul, no offense intended. Mine is your quote 405. I will be paying by credit card.

[Cagiva Gezzer]

Sounds good, but save file doesn't work for me. Makes me want to get out there and strip mine . . . hasn't been done for three years!

[Old Painless]

Good god, not had it done for three years ? You must have done it properly last time. lol

Just out of interest whats your mileage since the rebuild and your current compression level ?

Now i have done the strip down i guess i might as well do the rebuild too. This is going to be a lot of work ........

[Cagiva Gezzer]

I brought a car 3 years ago, so i've done very few miles. Maybe 3 days off road.

I don't measure compression, just rebuild it when it feels off.

[wertyu-2007]

old painless brilliant bit of stuff better than any haynes manual been studying all night

could you answer some questions for me

1 on pic 2448 you have a papermate marker pen what are you marking there

2 on pic 2475 you got the electrcal alternator/stator you show a pic of three screws are you showing just screws or are there marking there for alignment.

3 in pic 2499 you remove and black piece with wires going to it then a brass pin and spring and o ring what is that.

4)i was once told by someone that there crank was out by 120 degrees what did he mean and where in your strip down could you have rectified ie how do you stop this from happening.

5)how do you keep the timing of the engine correct during rebuild.which markings or where would you mark


cheers mate

[Old Painless]

Pic 2448 is marking the alignment of the starter cog in relation to the flywheel, not sure if it is a necessary step but it was how i was shown to do it.

Pic 2475 - 2581 are showing the position of the generator assembley, the alignment of this assembley in relation to the engine controls the ignition timing. It has to be in the correct place, hence the several photos.

Pic 2498 - 2495 is the breakdown of the neutral sender including shots of each component and the alignment of the sender. There is a brass pin, steel spring and o-ring washer.

4) The crank is set in direct relation to the balance shaft using the marks on the gears in white paint put there in the factory for this purpose.

5) The marks on the gears in the clutch side of the engine make sure the crank is in time with the balance shaft, the position of the generator assembley makes sure the crank is in time with the ignition system.

Glad to help.

[Old Painless]

This any better CG ?

http://www.mediafire.com/?oqz315szapx

[Cagiva Gezzer]

As above, not the best way for blocking the crank and i'd always take the flywheel / primary drive / clutch hub off while it's in the bike as it's easier to block (and lighter to pull out).


Good work, esp in the kitchen!

[Old Painless]

The missus was so pleased.

[Reders]

:lmfao: [quote name='Old Painless' date='Jun 8 2008, 12:13 PM' post='795174']
The missus was so pleased.

:lmfao: Better watch out, U'll be in an N ad nxt! lol