Help
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/ravaevalvetimimgs.jpg
useful RS information. Workshop manuals, service manuals etc.
#41
Old Painless 
- Does not know Everything !
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- Joined: 12-June 05
- Location:Nottingham.
Posted 04 July 2010 - 06:57 PM
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#42
xtreamer
- 125cc Sportsbikes Mechanic
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- Group: Members
- Posts: 876
- Joined: 18-August 08
Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:30 PM
Setting the timing on Rotax 123
1. remove the right hand engine casing (flywheel cover).
2. remove the flywheel (note the small 2mm hole on the side of the flywheel).
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Rotax123SEMFlywheel.jpg
3. loosen the 3 bolts holding the stator (don't loosen these off too much, just enough for you too be able to rotate the stator).
4. look at the stator, it has a small notch located at the bottom.
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Rotax123Stator.jpg
5. lift the tank & remove the spark plug.
6. using a dial indicator through the spark plug hole, find TDC & set the dial indicator to zero.
7. replace the flywheel but Not the nut & washer.
8. use a 2mm drill bit or equivalent & push it through the 2mm hole in the side of the flywheel.
9. rotate the flywheel Anti-clock wise until the 2mm drill bit or equivalent falls in to the notch on the stator (if you can only rock the flywheel back and forth a little then you have the 2mm drill bit or equivalent in the notch if the flywheel continues to rotate then you have missed the notch.
10. now take a reading from the dial indicator, the correct measurement should be between 1.84 & 2.03mm BTDC (so the manual says).
11. if the measurement is above or below these limits remove the flywheel & rotate the stator accordingly and repeat steps 7 - 10.
12. when you have it set correctly replace the flywheel including the washer & nut & tighten to 70Nm.
hope this is of help to all Rotax 123 owners.
1. remove the right hand engine casing (flywheel cover).
2. remove the flywheel (note the small 2mm hole on the side of the flywheel).
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Rotax123SEMFlywheel.jpg
3. loosen the 3 bolts holding the stator (don't loosen these off too much, just enough for you too be able to rotate the stator).
4. look at the stator, it has a small notch located at the bottom.
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Rotax123Stator.jpg
5. lift the tank & remove the spark plug.
6. using a dial indicator through the spark plug hole, find TDC & set the dial indicator to zero.
7. replace the flywheel but Not the nut & washer.
8. use a 2mm drill bit or equivalent & push it through the 2mm hole in the side of the flywheel.
9. rotate the flywheel Anti-clock wise until the 2mm drill bit or equivalent falls in to the notch on the stator (if you can only rock the flywheel back and forth a little then you have the 2mm drill bit or equivalent in the notch if the flywheel continues to rotate then you have missed the notch.
10. now take a reading from the dial indicator, the correct measurement should be between 1.84 & 2.03mm BTDC (so the manual says).
11. if the measurement is above or below these limits remove the flywheel & rotate the stator accordingly and repeat steps 7 - 10.
12. when you have it set correctly replace the flywheel including the washer & nut & tighten to 70Nm.
hope this is of help to all Rotax 123 owners.
#46
xtreamer
- 125cc Sportsbikes Mechanic
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- Group: Members
- Posts: 876
- Joined: 18-August 08
Posted 17 July 2010 - 12:39 PM
Aprilia RS125 2003 - 2006 Euro 2 De-restriction
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristrict.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristr-2.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristr-1.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristr-3.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristrict.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristr-2.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristr-1.jpg
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/Aprilia%20RS125%202003-2006%20Euro%202%20Deristriction/ApriliaRS125upto2006Euro2Deristr-3.jpg
#48
pego30
- 125cc Sportsbikes Tuner
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- Group: Members
- Posts: 1,443
- Joined: 15-December 09
- Location:upton wirral
Posted 18 August 2010 - 01:25 PM
how to jet your carb
Jetting is the process of adjusting the air and fuel jet sizes in order to fine tune your bike’s carburetion to suit the load demands on the engine and attempt to optimise power delivery. If you make any modifications to your engine (air box and exhaust included!) you need to know about jetting your carburettor. In this series you will learn the correct way to setup your carburettor after modifying your bike, how to tell if you are running lean or rich and what you can do about it.
In order to understand the best setup for your carburettor, you first need to understand how it works.
What parts make up the carburettor?
The purpose of the carburettor is to provide your engine with the correct ratio of fuel and air. Although the carburettor can’t provide the ideal mixture at all loads, the different parts of the carburettor work to try and create this ideal mixture for proper combustion.
The RS125 carburettor consists of the following parts:
How does the carburettor mix air and fuel?
Fuel from the tank enters the bowl through a small passage until the floats rise up enough to force the shut-off needle into the passage (prohibiting any more fuel from entering the fuel bowl). The main jet is usually found near the bottom of the fuel bowl. As the piston moves down, it draws air into the cylinder. This air flows through the throat of the carburettor and creates a vacuum which sucks fuel into the cylinder via the main jet.
The mixture screw is able to adjust the air in small amounts in order to fine tune the mixture (usually at idle). Most carburettors require adjustment of this screw and a jet change. When you change a jet, you are simply giving the fuel a smaller or bigger hole to flow through, thus changing the amount of fuel that reaches the cylinder.
What is meant by running rich or running lean?
These terms refer to the amount of petrol being delivered to the engine. If you are running lean, then the ratio of fuel to air is too low, that is, there isn’t enough fuel reaching your engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. This can cause the engine to run hotter and leave you with a seized piston. Running rich means that there is too much fuel reaching the engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. Running slightly rich is generally acceptable and protects the engine as the excess fuel helps to carry heat out of the engine. If you are running very rich, you will have a very smokey exhaust and performance will suffer.
The ideal ratio of air to fuel is called the stoichiometric ratio.
the five following plug chops are considered good
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae11/pego31/Firingendappearences1.jpg
getting bored with all the jetting questions so ^^^^^^
Jetting is the process of adjusting the air and fuel jet sizes in order to fine tune your bike’s carburetion to suit the load demands on the engine and attempt to optimise power delivery. If you make any modifications to your engine (air box and exhaust included!) you need to know about jetting your carburettor. In this series you will learn the correct way to setup your carburettor after modifying your bike, how to tell if you are running lean or rich and what you can do about it.
In order to understand the best setup for your carburettor, you first need to understand how it works.
What parts make up the carburettor?
The purpose of the carburettor is to provide your engine with the correct ratio of fuel and air. Although the carburettor can’t provide the ideal mixture at all loads, the different parts of the carburettor work to try and create this ideal mixture for proper combustion.
The RS125 carburettor consists of the following parts:
- Fuel bowl
- Shut-off needle
- Floats
- Main jet (provides mixing above 1/2 throttle)
- Pilot jet (provides mixing from idle to 1/4 throttle)
- Jet needle (regulates flow of the main jet as the throttle is opened; 1/4 to 3/4 throttle)
- Needle jet (passage to which the jet needle resides)
- Air screw (adjusts the amount of air from idle to 1/4 throttle)
- Idle screw (adjust the idle speed)
How does the carburettor mix air and fuel?
Fuel from the tank enters the bowl through a small passage until the floats rise up enough to force the shut-off needle into the passage (prohibiting any more fuel from entering the fuel bowl). The main jet is usually found near the bottom of the fuel bowl. As the piston moves down, it draws air into the cylinder. This air flows through the throat of the carburettor and creates a vacuum which sucks fuel into the cylinder via the main jet.
The mixture screw is able to adjust the air in small amounts in order to fine tune the mixture (usually at idle). Most carburettors require adjustment of this screw and a jet change. When you change a jet, you are simply giving the fuel a smaller or bigger hole to flow through, thus changing the amount of fuel that reaches the cylinder.
What is meant by running rich or running lean?
These terms refer to the amount of petrol being delivered to the engine. If you are running lean, then the ratio of fuel to air is too low, that is, there isn’t enough fuel reaching your engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. This can cause the engine to run hotter and leave you with a seized piston. Running rich means that there is too much fuel reaching the engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. Running slightly rich is generally acceptable and protects the engine as the excess fuel helps to carry heat out of the engine. If you are running very rich, you will have a very smokey exhaust and performance will suffer.
The ideal ratio of air to fuel is called the stoichiometric ratio.
the five following plug chops are considered good
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae11/pego31/Firingendappearences1.jpg
getting bored with all the jetting questions so ^^^^^^
This post has been edited by pego30: 18 August 2010 - 01:26 PM
#49
xtreamer
- 125cc Sportsbikes Mechanic
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- Group: Members
- Posts: 876
- Joined: 18-August 08
Posted 23 August 2010 - 12:30 PM
xtreamer, on 24 June 2010 - 11:30 AM, said:
Coloured wiring diagrams
Rotax 123 92-98
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/ApriliaRS125Rotax123WiringDia.jpg
Rotax 122 98-03 (poss to 05)
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/ApriliaRS125Rotax122WiringDia.jpg
Rotax 123 92-98
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/ApriliaRS125Rotax123WiringDia.jpg
Rotax 122 98-03 (poss to 05)
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/ApriliaRS125Rotax122WiringDia.jpg
Aprilia RS125 Euro3
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/xtreamer-/2007ApriliaRS125Euro3WiringDiagram.png
thumbsup:
This post has been edited by xtreamer: 23 August 2010 - 12:34 PM
#50
Liquidy
- 125cc Sportsbikes Novice
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- Group: Members
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 23-August 10
Posted 29 August 2010 - 03:06 PM
pego30, on 18 August 2010 - 01:25 PM, said:
how to jet your carb
Jetting is the process of adjusting the air and fuel jet sizes in order to fine tune your bike’s carburetion to suit the load demands on the engine and attempt to optimise power delivery. If you make any modifications to your engine (air box and exhaust included!) you need to know about jetting your carburettor. In this series you will learn the correct way to setup your carburettor after modifying your bike, how to tell if you are running lean or rich and what you can do about it.
In order to understand the best setup for your carburettor, you first need to understand how it works.
What parts make up the carburettor?
The purpose of the carburettor is to provide your engine with the correct ratio of fuel and air. Although the carburettor can’t provide the ideal mixture at all loads, the different parts of the carburettor work to try and create this ideal mixture for proper combustion.
The RS125 carburettor consists of the following parts:
How does the carburettor mix air and fuel?
Fuel from the tank enters the bowl through a small passage until the floats rise up enough to force the shut-off needle into the passage (prohibiting any more fuel from entering the fuel bowl). The main jet is usually found near the bottom of the fuel bowl. As the piston moves down, it draws air into the cylinder. This air flows through the throat of the carburettor and creates a vacuum which sucks fuel into the cylinder via the main jet.
The mixture screw is able to adjust the air in small amounts in order to fine tune the mixture (usually at idle). Most carburettors require adjustment of this screw and a jet change. When you change a jet, you are simply giving the fuel a smaller or bigger hole to flow through, thus changing the amount of fuel that reaches the cylinder.
What is meant by running rich or running lean?
These terms refer to the amount of petrol being delivered to the engine. If you are running lean, then the ratio of fuel to air is too low, that is, there isn’t enough fuel reaching your engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. This can cause the engine to run hotter and leave you with a seized piston. Running rich means that there is too much fuel reaching the engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. Running slightly rich is generally acceptable and protects the engine as the excess fuel helps to carry heat out of the engine. If you are running very rich, you will have a very smokey exhaust and performance will suffer.
The ideal ratio of air to fuel is called the stoichiometric ratio.
the five following plug chops are considered good
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae11/pego31/Firingendappearences1.jpg
getting bored with all the jetting questions so ^^^^^^
Jetting is the process of adjusting the air and fuel jet sizes in order to fine tune your bike’s carburetion to suit the load demands on the engine and attempt to optimise power delivery. If you make any modifications to your engine (air box and exhaust included!) you need to know about jetting your carburettor. In this series you will learn the correct way to setup your carburettor after modifying your bike, how to tell if you are running lean or rich and what you can do about it.
In order to understand the best setup for your carburettor, you first need to understand how it works.
What parts make up the carburettor?
The purpose of the carburettor is to provide your engine with the correct ratio of fuel and air. Although the carburettor can’t provide the ideal mixture at all loads, the different parts of the carburettor work to try and create this ideal mixture for proper combustion.
The RS125 carburettor consists of the following parts:
- Fuel bowl
- Shut-off needle
- Floats
- Main jet (provides mixing above 1/2 throttle)
- Pilot jet (provides mixing from idle to 1/4 throttle)
- Jet needle (regulates flow of the main jet as the throttle is opened; 1/4 to 3/4 throttle)
- Needle jet (passage to which the jet needle resides)
- Air screw (adjusts the amount of air from idle to 1/4 throttle)
- Idle screw (adjust the idle speed)
How does the carburettor mix air and fuel?
Fuel from the tank enters the bowl through a small passage until the floats rise up enough to force the shut-off needle into the passage (prohibiting any more fuel from entering the fuel bowl). The main jet is usually found near the bottom of the fuel bowl. As the piston moves down, it draws air into the cylinder. This air flows through the throat of the carburettor and creates a vacuum which sucks fuel into the cylinder via the main jet.
The mixture screw is able to adjust the air in small amounts in order to fine tune the mixture (usually at idle). Most carburettors require adjustment of this screw and a jet change. When you change a jet, you are simply giving the fuel a smaller or bigger hole to flow through, thus changing the amount of fuel that reaches the cylinder.
What is meant by running rich or running lean?
These terms refer to the amount of petrol being delivered to the engine. If you are running lean, then the ratio of fuel to air is too low, that is, there isn’t enough fuel reaching your engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. This can cause the engine to run hotter and leave you with a seized piston. Running rich means that there is too much fuel reaching the engine for the amount of air that is reaching the engine. Running slightly rich is generally acceptable and protects the engine as the excess fuel helps to carry heat out of the engine. If you are running very rich, you will have a very smokey exhaust and performance will suffer.
The ideal ratio of air to fuel is called the stoichiometric ratio.
the five following plug chops are considered good
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae11/pego31/Firingendappearences1.jpg
getting bored with all the jetting questions so ^^^^^^
yo i am new to this forum, have been reading on the forum for quite some time. your post really interests me as it is very detailed and straight forward. Can you please elaborate more about how do you actually go about getting the correct jetting? I am interested to know how to do it so i can DIY myself. cheers ^^
