[wood-tzr]

Hello...

I have found out that the 2 stroke oil in my bike is bog standard 2 stroke oil...
I want to change it, and put Silkolene Semi-synthetic oil instead...

I have read that I will need to change the oil on the tank, and then bleed the system from the oil pump to remove air bubbles...This part is fine

The part that I am worried about is the actual oil!

I have heard that I cant mix the 2 oils, as they will probably turn to jelly!

Do I need to empty the tank and then rinse it out with petrol or something?
and what about the pipe from the oil tank to the oil pump?

Do I need to rinse that out or will that be fine, when the old oil is flushed out via the bleed screw?

Many thanks!

 

[DJUnreal]

What do you mean by 'bog standard'? If it's road oil, it'll be fine regardless. If it's lawn mower oil, it'll be ok until you run out... lawn mowers run at higher revs than bikes do anyway.

Your best bet is to let the oil low warning light come on. At that point, top it up with your new oil. That's what I was doing, and I ended up using about 3 or 4 different brands of twopoke oil in my time. At the end of the day, it's oil, it gets burned in your engine, and it disappears. Just don't panic.

Oh, and oil turning to jelly if you mix it with other oil is a load of crap. I mixed different oils in my engine (namely because I ended up buying whatever the nearest garage had half the time, and the rest of the time I kept a gallon or so at home in a large container... It all depended on where I was at the time). NEVER did my oil turn to jelly, it stayed all oily (as I found out when I took the bike apart on a regular basis).

DJ Unreal

 

[tzr freak]

i will agree with that mate,just stick your good stuff in when it gets low.

 

[gregs656]

and me, hwo ever told you told 2t oil went to jelly was trying to freak you.

ive mixed all sorts of sh*t, i do what the DJ did, top it up with whats ever handy when i need it.

 

[DJUnreal]

Let's think about this logically for just one second...

Two stroke oil is two stroke oil. It's designed to lubricate an engine. Therefore, if it turns to jelly when mixed with other two stroke oil, it'd turn into jelly when mixed with itself.

Besides, my little brother (sat here shoulder-surfing this forum) recommends that anyone who says that mixing oils will create jelly should "go back to school and re-take GCSE Chemistry". He's also a heavy user of oil (in varying forms for various applications) and hasn't ever made jelly yet!

---------edit----------
Although he's never succeeded in making jelly yet, he's tried it many many times!!!
--------/edit----------

DJ Unreal

 

[wood-tzr]

Thaks for the replies!

I couldnt understand why it would turn to jelly.....but I thought I had better double check and be safe.....

The oil in it is just standard 2 stroke oil, from a petrol station...

But I will just run it on it till I need to fill the tank up and will then fill it with my silkolene semi-synthetic...

many thanks for the quick replies!

 

[Jonny]

if you mix castor based oil(propper racing stuff what they use in stuff like rs125's tz125's rsw125's etc) with road going type 2t oil it will turn to jelly.

tzr only uses a steel liner bore, mineral oil from a leading manufacturer should be fine for it, the haynes manual recomends castrol super tt mineral oil, avalible from tesco for ?2.60 somthing for 500ml. T'is what i used in my dtr.

 

[wood-tzr]

no, its not castor based....

Its standard semi-synthetic oil in it at the moment...

And I will just use silkolene semi-synthetic when I run low

thanks

 

[4dl dunken]

do you mean mixing normal 2t oil with fully synthetic oil (ie the ?4.50 a ltr stuff with the ?11 a ltr stuff)??
never heard of it turning to jelly .

 

[Jonny]

you wont be able to buy castor baised race oils in any normal bike shop and if you did find one that sold it you wouldnt buy it because it would cost your far too much lol

just let her run low then top up with the new brand, although your just waisting your money using semi syn, might aswell just use mineral as recomended.

 

[wood-tzr]

just let her run low then top up with the new brand, although your just waisting your money using semi syn, might aswell just use mineral as recomended.

?

The manual that I got, which is a tatty Yamaha workshop manual said that semi-synthetic is reccommended?

but anyway...semi-synthetic silkolene is only ?6 a litre
so its quite affordable!

 

[Jonny]

the manual i has said somthing along the lines of we recomend using a top quality mineral oil and showed the guy pouring in a bottle of castrol super tt

some model tzr's come with a diffrent cylinder, numbers 4fu00 these have bigger ports and a plated bore, i would imagine they would need fully syn oil

 

[DJUnreal]

At the end of the day, you'll be fine with any two stroke engine oil. I used Esso oil, Castrol SuperTT, and a few gallons of a cheaper third-party brand of two-stroke road oil sold at none other than the Mole Valley Farmer's Warehouse!

 

[lydanial]

i cant remember where or when but i saw/heard something along the lines of .. ,

- mixing fully synthetic oil with a mineral based oil (in other words none synthetic) would cause the oil to either harden/jellify (is that even a word)..

this was only in engine oil and not 2 stroke, apparently it wouldnt do anything until the engine got hot AND it would take a lot of heating and cooling over a peiod of time to cause the 'chemical reaction'.

so if this were true then your fine, as

A - the 2 stroke is stored relatively cool.
B - it only gets heated briefly before being burn off.

alternatively it could ALL be bollocks, but i am only repeating what i have been told.. bloody mechanics and there urban legends..

'yeah i knew a guy once who mixed synthetic with mineral, man it was ugly, over about an hour it started to jellify (still dunno if thats a words) then crept out of the engine and into the actual car through any little holes it could find. there it suffocated the driver. obviously while this was happening the engine seized as there was no oil left to keep it lubed. then the jelly rolled down the window and slid out where it looked for the nearest child it could find. when it found and caught one the jelly ate the boy.. yeah man ate the friggin boy.. as it swallowed and burped it said, 'thats for eating my green wobbly ancestor you little b*st*rd', anyway the army had to be called in to blow it up with nukes'

so there for gods sake dont do it!!

 

[lydanial]

found a couple of bits on net. read and make your own mind up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Two Tips for Engine Life
Two caveats regarding synthetic engine oils: You shouldn?t mix conventional and synthetic oils, as the mineral oil will degrade the synthetic?s performance. In an emergency you can top off with conventional oil (some oil is better than none), but it?s always best to add synthetic.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can mix different grades of oil with no bad effects. Do not, however, mix synthetic and normal oils (unless the synthetic's manufacturer specifically says it's OK).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are there any drawbacks of mixing mineral and synthetic fluids?
Answer: Yes! Reduced service life for the mix, and more harmful oil breakdown products- the types which cause more sludging and corrosion. Mineral oil has less oxidation resistance than synthetic oil. The mineral oil will oxidize faster, and produce oxidation byproducts. These byproducts act as catalysts towards further oxidation, which will induce the synthetic product to start the oxidation degradation also. The result is a more shortened life than what you would expect for the full synthetic base. The byproducts formed when the synthetic oil breaks down are generally more corrosive than the mineral product.

The easy fix here is don?t mix the products. When ever you are switching from mineral base oil to synthetic base oil, be sure to thoroughly flush the old product out to ensure maximum service life for your new synthetic.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mixing grades is not the problem, neither is synthetics and crudes (though it is true that you will lose the expensive benefits). The real problem is in mixing detergent and non-detergent oils. Never mix an oil that is rated, say 10-30 or 20-50 with one that is rated, say, SAE30 or SAE20.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[tzr freak]

cleer as mud.lol

so dont do it unless you have to.

 

[DJUnreal]

found a couple of bits on net. read and make your own mind up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Two Tips for Engine Life
Two caveats regarding synthetic engine oils: You shouldn?t mix conventional and synthetic oils, as the mineral oil will degrade the synthetic?s performance. In an emergency you can top off with conventional oil (some oil is better than none), but it?s always best to add synthetic.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can mix different grades of oil with no bad effects. Do not, however, mix synthetic and normal oils (unless the synthetic's manufacturer specifically says it's OK).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are there any drawbacks of mixing mineral and synthetic fluids?
Answer: Yes! Reduced service life for the mix, and more harmful oil breakdown products- the types which cause more sludging and corrosion. Mineral oil has less oxidation resistance than synthetic oil. The mineral oil will oxidize faster, and produce oxidation byproducts. These byproducts act as catalysts towards further oxidation, which will induce the synthetic product to start the oxidation degradation also. The result is a more shortened life than what you would expect for the full synthetic base. The byproducts formed when the synthetic oil breaks down are generally more corrosive than the mineral product.

The easy fix here is don?t mix the products. When ever you are switching from mineral base oil to synthetic base oil, be sure to thoroughly flush the old product out to ensure maximum service life for your new synthetic.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mixing grades is not the problem, neither is synthetics and crudes (though it is true that you will lose the expensive benefits). The real problem is in mixing detergent and non-detergent oils. Never mix an oil that is rated, say 10-30 or 20-50 with one that is rated, say, SAE30 or SAE20.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now tell me where it mentions any of this about 2t oil?

 

[lydanial]

it doesnt, but i did a bit of a search and that was ALL i found. If you look at my post # you will see that i mention i had heard about this before but ONLY in engine oil for the reasons stated NOT 2poke.

found a couple of bits on net. read and make your own mind up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Two Tips for Engine Life
Two caveats regarding synthetic engine oils: You shouldn?t mix conventional and synthetic oils, as the mineral oil will degrade the synthetic?s performance. In an emergency you can top off with conventional oil (some oil is better than none), but it?s always best to add synthetic.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can mix different grades of oil with no bad effects. Do not, however, mix synthetic and normal oils (unless the synthetic's manufacturer specifically says it's OK).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are there any drawbacks of mixing mineral and synthetic fluids?
Answer: Yes! Reduced service life for the mix, and more harmful oil breakdown products- the types which cause more sludging and corrosion. Mineral oil has less oxidation resistance than synthetic oil. The mineral oil will oxidize faster, and produce oxidation byproducts. These byproducts act as catalysts towards further oxidation, which will induce the synthetic product to start the oxidation degradation also. The result is a more shortened life than what you would expect for the full synthetic base. The byproducts formed when the synthetic oil breaks down are generally more corrosive than the mineral product.

The easy fix here is don?t mix the products. When ever you are switching from mineral base oil to synthetic base oil, be sure to thoroughly flush the old product out to ensure maximum service life for your new synthetic.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mixing grades is not the problem, neither is synthetics and crudes (though it is true that you will lose the expensive benefits). The real problem is in mixing detergent and non-detergent oils. Never mix an oil that is rated, say 10-30 or 20-50 with one that is rated, say, SAE30 or SAE20.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

anyway i would wait till it got real low, or drain your oil tank but leave your tubes full, that way you still get oil flow before it changes to the synthetic.

 

[gregs656]

do you know what the main differences between mineral, semi and fully synthetic oil is. Its just about the length of the chains, how they are controlled to make them all the same length.

what do you think mineral + sythetic equals? semi sythetic basically.

seriously, your looking too far into this, dont think about it again, buy oil, put it in the tank and forget about it.

Just ride the f**king thing.

 

[tzr freak]

i must say mate, well done,straight to the point.i must agree, i have been thinking about this, and i have used anything and everything without a problem.so lets not think about it anymore