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hello guys, its been a slow process and i've only just taken the tank and carb off along with the piston and i was just wondering how much sideways play should the con-rod ( is that right???) have theres no other movement in it apart from sideways and measures approx 1-2mm of movement each side, hope this isn't more work for me to do
 

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hello guys, its been a slow process and i've only just taken the tank and carb off along with the piston and i was just wondering how much sideways play should the con-rod ( is that right???) have theres no other movement in it apart from sideways and measures approx 1-2mm of movement each side, hope this isn't more work for me to do
a small amount of sideways movement is fine(check the manual for the proper tolerences)its up and down where you don't want any movement .
 

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I believe the correct maximum tollerence is 0.7mm, check the workshop manual.

You need to check side to side, up and down and for any tight spots or crunching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No up and down play . Some sideways float (0.7MM IIRC) and no rock.

argh well its more than 0.7mm im sure cause 0.7 is very minute and mine moves atleast 1.5mm will have to measure properly though, bikes done 20k km so its probably just wear and tear hopefully bearings look nice and shiney though if that makes any diffrence? got to flush out bottem end to remove any metal pieces if any will keep u posted, but let me know if its the movement i have is normal to wear and tear
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
phew just measured it befor i go to work with wait for it a ruler lol its just under 1mm so id say bout 0.7 maybe 0.8mm so im safe all in all if all goes well i'll get away with topend re-build still need to get hold of a barrel and carb though


anyone?

barrel 73037 and carb phbh28-rd de-restricted if poss cheers
 

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You need to use a feeler gague and get an accurate measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You need to use a feeler gague and get an accurate measurement.
i guess i have to put feeler gauge down the side of it and check for movement and see what size stops it moving??
 

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just got snorkel off jonny tonight, so bunging all in post tmora.
Just sold my mito


ill check carb for ya!

col
cheers col

hope it went to a good home
 

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i guess i have to put feeler gauge down the side of it and check for movement and see what size stops it moving??
Pretty much. There should be a point where you can get one size in between the con-rod and the washer next to it and the next size up will not fit in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
got new cylinder head today ( thx col) and when i took the well i dont know what its called but the bit that sticks out the top of head with the pipe going to it thinks its the bit that opens the coolant if that makes sense anyway its stuck it will move with force but yeah its fooked so need one them, could this be why the piston went or is it another issue??

also the con-rod i can slide it from side to side probably bout a 1mm and i can wiggle it slightly i have a vid just got to find out how to upload
 

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You need feeler gauges, about ?3 from halfords etc.

The thermostat your forcing open is supposed to open when it gets hot, not before.
 

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FFS, get some feeler gauges.
lol i work nights so its hard to get out during the day getting them tomorrow though ok, i have got feeler gauges but the sizes stamped on them i dont understand for example as written on blade

.007

.178

mm

does this mean 0.7mm or 0.178mm?
 
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