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Ok this started yesturday, i have a problem with my rear brake, when ever i go to brake i can hear a sound like a sound of the brake pads are f*cked when they try to stop the bike more like a rubbing noise, im not sure whats caused it. Can anyone help?
 

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Check out what woz suggested. Replacement pads are about ?12 for the pair.

Do you need to apply a lot of pressure for the brakes to work? Is there a rubbing noise when you wheel the bike slowly? Might be something inside the brake calipre causing the noise or causing the pads not to spring back.
 

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You will need to take out the pads. Heres a diagram to show the construction of the calipre:

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/lum...caliper-f11.jpg

That out the Pin, number 6, and pull out the two pads. Number 9 might come loose or fall out, if it does take the chance to give it a clean then stick it back in. Replace the pads and slide them back in and secure them with the pin.
 

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sounds like is been binding if one brake pad is worn and the other isnt, to replace them is a piece of p**s. Take the retaining pin out with a allen key which you get with the tool kit, slide old ones out, put new ones in their place, lube the pin up with some copper grease and place back in and tighten

Put if the piston is seized then you will have to free that up and give it a good clean which means taking the caliper to pieces for the best result
 

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Ok just found out piston was seized and that the left hand side is really tight now to the disc and wont let me move it to get the pad in, so how do i take to caliper off?
First thing is to free the pistons, the one stuck out is probably slightly on the p**s, If so then you need to take the caliper off the bike, ie wheel out etc, once you have the caliper in your hand, pump the rear break pedal, the in piston will move outwards, if the out piston does not move, put a small block of wood between the moving piston & the caliper face so that when you pump the brake pedal it can not move, doing this should free the stuck out piston.
Once that piston moves ok and has pumped out showing nice clean piston body, block that one & re pump till the other piston shows clean piston body.
Now you need to clean the pistons & the caliper body, it is best to have taken the sliding part of the caliper off, clean with soapy water & a toothbrush, you can use brake cleaner to clean the hard to move crud from the caliper, to clean the pistons use nylon box banding, the stuff they bind box`s with just puy it round the piston & use a see sawing motion, i find WD40 or simalar is ideal to help get crud off the pston.

Clean the sliding caliper pins with emery cloth if coroded, put plenty of grease into the slider rubber boots.

spray the caliper with silicon spray before you put the pads back in, to get the pistons back into the caliper, remove the brake fluid resevoir lid, get a pair of adjustable plumbers nut pliers, as they will open out wide, protect the caliper body & piston with a bit of cloth & gently squeese the piston back into the caliper, when both have beeen done put the sliding part ao the caliper back on, put in your new pads, making sure to put copper grease onto the backs of the pads & the pin that holds the pads on, put back onto the bike, put the rear wheel back in, torque up to the correct torque for rear wheel axle nut pump your brake lever to bring the pads into play & away you go.

Chris.
 

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Already took the screw out, so should it come of now?
yes, the main part of the caliper should now slide off the back plate from the two sliding pins, make sure that you copper grease the threads of the number 6 pin when you have put the pads in.

Chris.

Make sure that you locate the rubber bellows numbers 12 & 13 locate fully on to the sliding pins, or water will get into the sliding pins & can sieze up.
 
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