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Unreal to the rescue!!!

Rear light doesn't work. Front light dims on revving.

Rear light: check it's wired up properly, could be a short there that's allowing all the power to bypass the lights and go back to the battery via the frame. I had a similar problem when I trapped one of my rear light power wires between my frame and the bit where my seat unit is held on... Had me f**king confused when I was riding home!!!

Front light: Should get brighter when you rev. This is because once you hit 3000RPM you should be generating enough power to not only charge your battery, but power your bike as well. Makes me think that if it's dimming, the load is being pulled elsewhere (like a dodgy wire in your tail light!).

Give those a check, and use the wonders of the multimeter to investigate, probe and generally poke around every single wire that's in those two systems. Oh, and it might be worth taking your switch gear apart and giving it a good old coating of WD-40.

Incidentally, that's good advice for everyone else... Get your switchgear off, leave all the metal parts sat in a bowl of coca-cola (and the odd shot of vodka here and there for good measure) overnight, rinse them off a coupla times with water, and then saturate the lot in WD-40 (When I did this with munkeyboi's new switches, I let it sit in a puddle until the WD-40 went black, washed it off, and repeated the process a second time. Then gave it a nice rinse, put it all back together and gave it one final coat of WD to make it all work
).

HTH.
 

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i had this problem, i changed the rectifier, and no difference, it turned out to be a bad connection from the positive lead on the battery.like a dry solder joint or something like that, but i would be inclined to go with unreal, as he has yet to be proven wrong on electrics
 

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Yeah, dry joints on the battery are included in my analysis...

As quoted from earlier:

Give those a check, and use the wonders of the multimeter to investigate, probe and generally poke around every single wire that's in those two systems.

Every single wire includes battery wires
 

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Yo people.

Just wanted to add.
DJ is a fookin God when it comes to electrics.
Bought a new bike alarm and went to his house to get it fitted. I forgot the manual and he still wired it up no problems.

He's redone all my connections. Fixed my ignition (bike would start without keys) and all sorts of odds and ends.
Ripped me poor tzr apart and fixed it a treat and fast.
Allthough when he came to mine we stayed up drinking til 7am and weren't in the right state to do work on the sunday. Lol

Next job for his Godliness is putting TZR 250 switches, left and right. TZR 250 Throttle and front brake system. Wiring in a cigarette lighter socket too.

Anyways, Pay heed and hark his words. he knows his sh*t

Munkeyboi
 

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EDIT to his previous post... The cigarette lighter will be set up slightly differently (powercon sockets on both sides of the fairing, dongles for different bits, including charging circuits without needing to dismantle the bike).

As for the drinking, that was a bit of a laugh... Spent a lot of time watching tv and stuff, and then realised he didn't have a power socket, which meant riding across town to collect an extension lead, which meant by the time we'd dismantled the bike, we had to put it back together again.
 

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Bring it! You love me really!
 

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He wants 250 switches, because a) I fitted them to my 125 and it looked pretty damned sweet, b) the 250 switches are actually rugged, solid, and look good and c) they work!

I'm gonna wire them straight off the battery, with separate fuses, in parallel. One will take power TO the battery (as a charging circuit for an external mains powered battery charger) and the other will feed power FROM the battery to a socket, which when a dongle is plugged into, can give you any connection you want. For example a cigarette lighter socket.

Can't think why you'd want relays though...
 

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so you cant leave the bastid on when your engine aint running.

personally i wouldnt wire em straight off the battery, i would run the neg straight onto the battery. positive through the switched part of the relay from the battery positive and a switched feed for the relay coil is easy to pick up, off the indicators or what ever.

thats how i did a mates hot grips. Best way IMO, but its up to yaw of course.
 

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It'll be the muttz nutz mate.

Go on then DJ, why should i do it your way and not gregs?

DJ = Eletrics god. Nuff said.
Can power up my air compressor, Sat Nav, Heated grips and bread maker from the comfort of the saddle.

Heck. Bet if i give his holiness my phone charge, he could rig that up.

Mmmmmmm


DJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJ wana charge my phone on the bike.

Amen.

lol
 

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I wouldn't use a relay to stop it working when the ignition's off - that's just overkill.

There's easier ways of doing it (I just didn't take that into consideration, figuring that a) you don't need your battery to start your bike, b) munkeyboi isn't stupid enough to leave things plugged into his bike when it's parked outside and c) electrical components don't like being left outside to get wet.), and they're also more cost-effective.

Phone chargers have many options. 1) the cigarette lighter phone charger. 2) the inverter that you could power from your bike battery to give you a 13A mains socket, so you could plug the phone charger in to rectify the inverted signal back into 12V DC (which is what it started out as in the first place!!!). I'm not going into other options because that's just stupid.

Oh, and if you power your breadmaker, I expect fresh bread that's freshly toasted from the toaster that you'll also use your bike to power. Ideal for those camping trips!
 
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