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do not even contemplate trying this unless you have a basic knowledge of mechanics if your not confident leave it to a professional
this is by no means the official or correct way to do things, just the way i do it.

engine removal


tools needed to do this

swingarm pivot lock nut key
10 mm spanner / socket
8mm spanner / socket
13 mm spanner / socket
17 mm spanner / socket
22 mm spanner / socket
m6 allen fitting
m8 allen fitting
small flat head screw driver
phillips screw driver
long nose pliers
trolley jack
piece of wood
plastic or rubber mallet



rite first off remove the side fairings,oil pump, carb and top cylinder engine mount if you cant do that you have wrong bike for you

once thats done ^

remove the gear oil plug and drop the oil





also remove the gear linkage from the shaft

then remove the top off the coolent bottle and find the coolent drain bolt and remove and drop the coolent





also disconnect this tube from the rad and drain the rad


then disconnect the temp sensor and remove the spark plug cap


then unplug these wires pictured

and the netruel sensor by the front sprocket


remove the batt and batt tray





remove the hose on the cylinder head water jacket cover



remove the rave valve



remove exhaust springs



remove mid exhaust mount bolt


and the rear exhaust mount bolt


remove exhaust


remove front sprocket circlip


and remove front sprocket


remove the clutch cable from the lever end


then from the engine end


remove the earths from the mounting point and put the bolt back in as not too lose it


remove the starter motor live lead




remove the swingarm lock nut and loosen the pivot bolt off (note special key needed to remove the lock nut or a screwy and hammer )


then remove the lower engine mount bolt



at this point support the engine using a trolley jack and a block of wood from the bottom if your feeling brave theres no need too

remove the front engine mount



then loosen and withdraw the swingarm pivot shaft just far enough to clear the crank cases no further do not fully withdraw it


then lower the engine down on the jack may need a few taps with a mallet here and there to get it free
once lowerd push the swingarm pivot shaft back threw and tighten it up



engines out


mounts





removing the cylinder head and cylinder


tools you need for this
this can be done with the engine still in the frame but i find it easier out of the frame

11 mm spanner or socket with bend
13 mm spanner or socket
14mm spark plug spanner
m6 allen key attachment

first off remove the spark plug
then loosen and remove the 4 allen key bolts securing the cylinder head water jacket cover




and remove the cover



then loosen off and remove the 13 mm head bolts securing the cylinder head to the cylinder




and remove the cylinder head



once the above is completed you need to find the 4 cylinder base nuts and loosen and remove these with the 11mm spanner




then tap the cylinder lightly on the four corners of it to release it slightly
then with one hand under the reedblock side and one hand on the exhuast mounting stub pull and rock gently back an fourth, the cylinder will gradually release itself from the piston



so your left with this


 

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top write up steve, I'm going to go have a go at the "special" tool nut then with a hammer and a screwdriver, didn't think of that, I need to drop the engine.
 

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top write up steve, I'm going to go have a go at the "special" tool nut then with a hammer and a screwdriver, didn't think of that, I need to drop the engine.
if you go down the hammer and screwy route prepare too fork out 5 £ or so for a new lock nut if its on real tight

the tool only a 10r and tbh its a must have owning one of these as my engines out more then in lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APRILIA-RS125-ENGINE-SWINGARM-LOCKNUT-TOOL-RS-125-aa-/300590016591?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45fc8fa84f

lol
 

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Bargain! Never thought of looking on ebay! Thought with it being italian special tooling they'd have you paying through the nose, Ordered!
 

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cant you do the piston and rings with the engine in on the rs then? also, is the front sprocket only held in by a circlips??
 

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This came at a really helpful time for me cheers pego. Also thought its worth mentioning, I did the whole 'modify a socket instead of forking out and buying a swingarm locknut tool' trick today. worked a treat. Fits perfectly now and I saved 15 quid

You need a 22 mm socket, a vice, hacksaw, ruler and a set of files.
Prongs should be 5mm deep, 4mm wide and then about 3mm from the edge towards the centre. Hope you can see how I mean :p confusing I know

Thought using a grinder would be too inaccurate and powerful as the work is quite intricate.

Thanks to G30 for the idea!
 

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Great write up as usual pego! Also ... get rid of them chicken strips ^^ its an RS how can you fail to reach the edge of the tyre :D :D
 

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top rite up pego and piccys...cant wait too see results of flat top with the abbey cylinder you going to run with the two base gaskets
 

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good write up Pego
, things like these help people stop posting the same things on the forum over and over again
 

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if you go down the hammer and screwy route prepare too fork out 5 £ or so for a new lock nut if its on real tight

the tool only a 10r and tbh its a must have owning one of these as my engines out more then in lol

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3cbafb70e3
good guide mate.


yes tswing-armarm nremovalvel tool is a must.

but beware if you use it harshly it will break as they are only stainless steel.

They are a top tool to have if you are following this post.
 
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