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cheers m8.so once iv taken the flywheel off do i just put it back on or do i need to time it up.if so how do u do that
Hi !

you dont have to adjust the timing for the ignition unless you taken of the stator plate or turned it for some reason.. or you havent fitted a bigger carb with old timing set-up.. (your reply to this ? )

You might wanna use a torque wrench when putting pack the FlyWheel nut (if you are able to get/loan/have a torque wrench)

put a "screw loctite" into mentioned nut.

Check your "half moon" lock spline before putting FlyWheel back, better but a new "half moon" in place rather than pressed old !
Be sure and careful to put the FlyWheel back into correct groove, in any other case serious damage will happen.

bye

markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And try not to lose the woodruff key...
well i took my big to a garage to get the top end rubuilt and after they did the rebuild they said there was no spark and it was the cdi and they wanted nearly 400quid 4 it.so i told them to f*ck off and i brought myself 1 from mito mondo with a ht coil new plug and i put fresh petrol in there and theres still no spark.iv looked at the wires and they seem to be ok then i noice that the left hand side engine cover bolts was lose.so i took of the cover and i saw there was loads of fresh marks by the bolts that hold the flywheel on so i think that the garage did that.o and they was always on the phone to me sayin that its not worth the rebuild and that they would buy the whole bike of me 4 100quid
 

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well i took my big to a garage to get the top end rubuilt and after they did the rebuild they said there was no spark and it was the cdi and they wanted nearly 400quid 4 it.so i told them to f*ck off and i brought myself 1 from mito mondo with a ht coil new plug and i put fresh petrol in there and theres still no spark.iv looked at the wires and they seem to be ok then i noice that the left hand side engine cover bolts was lose.so i took of the cover and i saw there was loads of fresh marks by the bolts that hold the flywheel on so i think that the garage did that.o and they was always on the phone to me sayin that its not worth the rebuild and that they would buy the whole bike of me 4 100quid
Whoah your betsy there kiddo. Before you start going mad with the spanners, hang fire.

Firstly - What model and year of Mito do you have.

Secondly - Exactly what work did the garage do for you.

Thirdly - Exactly what was the fault that made you take the bike to the garage in the first place.

Not being a pedant here, but you need to tell us the whole sordid history of what's happened so we can start at the beginning and look logically at the problem to try and resolve it.

Sounds to me that you may have more than 1 fault, and if you go diving in without taking stock of what is going on you'll end up getting into such a mess and creating more problems for yourself. Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, its just you need to step back and take stock of the problem before ripping the thing apart!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[quote name='Bananas' date='Mar 14 2007, 02:36 PM' post='556752']
Second you've got the flywheel off, wrap the end of the shaft where the woodruff key is with a little electrical tape. Saves you from losing the key and will protect the end of the shaft from getting dinked accidently by anything!

Whoah your betsy there kiddo. Before you start going mad with the spanners, hang fire.

Firstly - What model and year of Mito do you have.

Secondly - Exactly what work did the garage do for you.

Thirdly - Exactly what was the fault that made you take the bike to the garage in the first place.

Not being a pedant here, but you need to tell us the whole sordid history of what's happened so we can start at the beginning and look logically at the problem to try and resolve it.

Sounds to me that you may have more than 1 fault, and if you go diving in without taking stock of what is going on you'll end up getting into such a mess and creating more problems for yourself. Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, its just you need to step back and take stock of the problem before ripping the thing apart!
its an evo on a (R reg)i took it to the garage as they said the piston need changin so i had a topend kit fitted.then they rang me up sayin that its not sparking even tho the bike was running when i took it to the garage and i needed a new cdi and that would be another 400 quid.so i got my self 1 from mito mondo with a new ht coil and new plug and still no spark

[quote name='Bananas' date='Mar 14 2007, 02:36 PM' post='556752']
Second you've got the flywheel off, wrap the end of the shaft where the woodruff key is with a little electrical tape. Saves you from losing the key and will protect the end of the shaft from getting dinked accidently by anything!

Whoah your betsy there kiddo. Before you start going mad with the spanners, hang fire.

Firstly - What model and year of Mito do you have.

Secondly - Exactly what work did the garage do for you.

Thirdly - Exactly what was the fault that made you take the bike to the garage in the first place.

Not being a pedant here, but you need to tell us the whole sordid history of what's happened so we can start at the beginning and look logically at the problem to try and resolve it.

Sounds to me that you may have more than 1 fault, and if you go diving in without taking stock of what is going on you'll end up getting into such a mess and creating more problems for yourself. Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, its just you need to step back and take stock of the problem before ripping the thing apart!

its an evo on a (R reg)i took it to the garage as they said the piston need changin so i had a topend kit fitted.then they rang me up sayin that its not sparking even tho the bike was running when i took it to the garage and i needed a new cdi and that would be another 400 quid.so i got my self 1 from mito mondo with a new ht coil and new plug and still no spark
 

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R Reg Evo then...

OK, what was it doing to make you take it to the garage in the first place. I know they said it was the top end that needed doing, but that may be bullsh*t - just tell me what the fault was you had at the time.

If it was running when you took it in, then it should be running when you got it back! Look at the receipt you got from the garage, and tell me exactly what they say they have done, and how much they charged you.

If they've only changed the top end there is no reason from what I can tell why they would have to take the engine covers off. If they have, they may have in-explicably removed the flywheel, lost the woodruff key and stuck the flywheel back on without it. if its turned on the shaft the timing would be well out (tho it would still spark at the wrong time).

I don't like what I've heard from you about this garage. Sounds too suss for my liking. Did you take the whole bike in or just the engine?

In your original post about this subject I didn't realise you'd had major work done on the engine, just thought you'd developed a fault. Too me, this problem smells of a poor job done by the garage, but I'm not gonna accuse them of anything just yet!

(BTW - I've got an old Mito2, not an Evo. From what I can tell there isn't a huge difference between the engines in how they work, but may require somebody with an Evo to help me out if I say something completely wrong. The only workshop manual I have on my laptop is for the Mito2, so if I start saying wire colours that are different to yours don't nobody give me jip!)
 

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I've got an old Mito2, not an Evo. From what I can tell there isn't a huge difference between the engines in how they work, but may require somebody with an Evo to help me out if I say something completely wrong. The only workshop manual I have on my laptop is for the Mito2, so if I start saying wire colours that are different to yours don't nobody give me jip!
Engines identical. Carbs vary. Manuals for both at link in my sig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well it was running really poor and would only do like 10mph.this is wot its says on the invoice i got from them

fit piston and barrell and gaskets,seal and small end bearings.cheak for electrical fault and drag nose.
re-assenble and leave in non running condion.
?120 labur
?213.14 for the topend kit and 17.5%vat
total ?391.44

well it was running really poor and would only do like 10mph.this is wot its says on the invoice i got from them

fit piston and barrell and gaskets,seal and small end bearings.cheak for electrical fault and drag nose.
re-assenble and leave in non running condion.
?120 labur
?213.14 for the topend kit and 17.5%vat
total ?391.44
oyeah and i took the hole bike down
 

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well it was running really poor and would only do like 10mph.this is wot its says on the invoice i got from them

fit piston and barrell and gaskets,seal and small end bearings.cheak for electrical fault and drag nose.
re-assenble and leave in non running condion.
?120 labur
?213.14 for the topend kit and 17.5%vat
total ?391.44
"leave in non running condition" - what the f*ck is that supposed to mean????


Price looks rightish for the work done.

Ooooohhhh, why do I get a nasty feeling about this.........

Give me a few minutes for a ponder.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
[quote name='Bananas' date='Mar 14 2007, 03:24 PM' post='556802']
"leave in non running condition" - what the f*ck is that supposed to mean????


Price looks rightish for the work done.

Ooooohhhh, why do I get a nasty feeling about this.........

Give me a few minutes for a ponder.....

lol ok mate
 

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A- raped.
B- Silly for taking it back as a non-runner. At least it ran when it went in.
C- Where are you? Maybe OP can finnish their job(of wrecking it).
A - You're right. Probably spent a couple of hours looking for an electrical fault they caused and charged you for it.
B - Agreed. Went in running, came out not. Hardly done the job they set out to do.
C - Could be the best option if you live somewhere near to a decent garage. You could spend ages looking for this fault, when probably the best idea would be to start at scratch and go from the ground up.

Where abouts are you located,

and

Not that I want to throw any sh*t around or anything, who was the garage (just in case anybody else on the board has had dealings with them and can shed some light on thier service quality).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A - You're right. Probably spent a couple of hours looking for an electrical fault they caused and charged you for it.
B - Agreed. Went in running, came out not. Hardly done the job they set out to do.
C - Could be the best option if you live somewhere near to a decent garage. You could spend ages looking for this fault, when probably the best idea would be to start at scratch and go from the ground up.

Where abouts are you located,

and

Not that I want to throw any sh*t around or anything, who was the garage (just in case anybody else on the board has had dealings with them and can shed some light on thier service quality).
im in devon and the garage is called dawlish 2n4 repair centre
 

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im in devon and the garage is called dawlish 2n4 repair centre
Anybody out there know or used them? No appointing any blame here, but would like to what thier reputation is.
 

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Some questions to clear things up -

How was it running before? Would it start easily, or was it a pain to start and sounded really wooly / hollow?

What did the old topend look like inside? Please tell me you got the old parts back?

What bolts near the flywheel were covered with marks?

From my experience, the stator plate (the area where you?re attacking) rarely goes wrong.

The way to test it is to measure the resistance across the windings.

As said before, we?re not sure what you?re on about. You need to work out what you?re trying to work out before you can move forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Some questions to clear things up -

How was it running before? Would it start easily, or was it a pain to start and sounded really wooly / hollow?

What did the old topend look like inside? Please tell me you got the old parts back?

What bolts near the flywheel were covered with marks?

From my experience, the stator plate (the area where you?re attacking) rarely goes wrong.

The way to test it is to measure the resistance across the windings.

As said before, we?re not sure what you?re on about. You need to work out what you?re trying to work out before you can move forward.
no it was a pain 2 start but it did sound ok.i did have the old piston 4 the bike and the old barrell got sent to the place where they got the new barrell.and its the 3 bolts on the flywheel that has been messed about with
 

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no it was a pain 2 start but it did sound ok.i did have the old piston 4 the bike and the old barrell got sent to the place where they got the new barrell.and its the 3 bolts on the flywheel that has been messed about with
Now that is very suss to me. Why did they mess with the flywheel? No reason to if they're just doing the top end. All the electrical side can be checked with a multimeter without taking anything apart. The only reasons for removing the flywheel would be to change a faulty generator or to split the crank cases to fully strip the engine. Got a sneeky feeling that somebody may have dropped something into the crankcase when doing the top end and had to take the engine apart to get it out.
 
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