[Joe92]

Errrmm basically when i bought my raptor the guy gave me a 'de-restriction kit' which included a bigger air intake snorkel, and a bigger main fuel jet which is a 110. The previous owner said he had the bike restricted at a garage and i have the mechanics notes from when he did it.

I put in the bigger snorkel, then removed the carb and got to the main jet and it already had a 110 in it. The other 110 that came in the kit wouldnt even screw in fully.

Anyway anyone have any idea what size fuel jet I should use cant find out using google alone!? I guess it would be the same as the mitos . Thanks!

 

[RS Fanboy]

As it's a raptor, and NOT exactly listed in stickies, will help. It is the same as the BD carb in the Mito, sounds like you have the BD carb, stick a 120 in there. DO some plug chops after at WOT to see if running correct, or she may blow, and do a compression test aswell.

FYI - i have a raptor and jets from 120 - 135 ....

 

[hevo]

And check the exhaust.

 

[Joe92]

Cool 120 jet on its way from ebay thanks man

 

[RS Fanboy]

buy compression tester asap, search for plug chopping, do both after the 120 jet, or face top end or worse rebuild trouble you really dont want.

 

[Joe92]

I just wondered if you knew whether any of the other jets would need changing or just the main. think the carb is a dellorto so im assuming bd is a type of dellorto carb or something.

I dont want to keep starting new threads so wondered if you guys had any ideas, but i ran the bike completely of fuel the other day, and after refilling the engine wont fire up.

Checked the jets and carb were clean, and the filter in the carb was clean, checked the spark which was a bit sooty but was still sparking, but the bike wont start. Jump started it and it goes on throttle just like normal but when you let it idle or come of throttle and slow down it quickly dies, the electric motor got the bike started again straight after it died. After the second time of dying i didnt start it again right away, and found the electric starter not firing her up and had to bump again.

Any ideas as to what it could be, thanks guys ? :S

 

[RBmito]

Idle jet & the idle diffuser screwed in below it should be 65 & b65 for derestriction. Restricted are 55's. So worth checking them.

 

[Joe92]

Thanks pal appreciate it. Any ideas where i can get them? I can only seem to find the 120 main over internet. Hopefully upjetting the idle jets will help to solve the problem of the bike needing alot of choke and reving on cold start cause the bike will often just stall otherwise.

As for the bike not starting at the moment and dying, i'll try a fresh plug to start

 

[RS Fanboy]

Is your exhaust derestricted and do you have derestricted airbox snorkels ... pics would help if your unsure.

 

[RBmito]

If you need them go on to dellorto's web site

13086.65.02 Idle jet/emulsion tube
12995.65.02 deep idle jet
Roughly £20 delivered

 

[Joe92]

Okay great i'll get the other jets from there thanks mate. I do have the larger snorkel,the bike came with the mechanics notes from when the restriction job was done, just says that a restricted snorkel was put in and a 110 jet but nothing else so i thought de restricting was a very simple job. I couldn't say if the exhaust is restricted or know how to tell but if its an important part of the process i'll definitly have it done before replacing all the jets and snorkel..I can také a pic of the exhaust.

 

[Joe92]

Im sure the snorkel is correct, it is exactly the same as the smaller snorkel just with wider squarer intake holes, it also has cagiva written on it and fits into the box snug. I have ordered the jets. I've had to temporarily put the restriction thing to one side while im trying to get the bike running because as i said it wont start since i ran it out of fuel, once i've got it running normally i'll work on de restricting it and pop a picture of the exhaust on and do the compression tests plug chops etc

 

[RS Fanboy]

Sounds like you have the DERESTRICTED snorkels on ?

 

[Dmitry]

Hi there, I thought it would be the most appropriate place to revive the Cagiva Raptor 125 discussion. I have derestricted model from 2006, which according to the previous owner, was running fine since he bought it in 2016.

Initially, the problem I saw was the engine stalling after you rev it high on neutral and release. Also, it was hard to start with the electric starter without adding some gas.

The previous owner changed the throttle slide and reed valves, but the problem persisted. After that, I couldn't start it with an electric starter at all, and the stalling problem on low idle revs happens not only after you rev it up and release but also when it just stays on idle revs. I was told that problem might be worse when the bike is warmed up (so you ride it around a little, and then it stalls more often), but I haven't checked that personally.

I've got the bike with a discount as it doesn't run properly, and he told me likely it would be fine after changing the reed cage and maybe the pilot jet as it was unaltered. However, as you can see in the photos, the reed valves don't seem open to the degree that would cause trouble (according to instructions I saw over the internet). Both main and pilot jets seem to have around the right size: 120 and 65, choke jet is 65, while default sizes for main and pilot on Cagiva Raptor 125 AFAIK are 110 and 60.

Right now, I have en-route:

• V-Force 4R kit reed for Cagiva Raptor 125 97-07, which according to what I see with my eyes is not a requirement given that current reed cage and valves are OK, and which according to @Remy is not better than original, as Boyesen could fit it and provide higher performance. I thought of returning V-Force once it arrives but then figured that the replacement the previous owner bought seems to be produced by Boyesen as well, just not the exact model @Remy used;
• 2 Stroke Performance Carburetor Carb Stage 1-3 Jet Kit from 6Sigma Jet Kit, which I ordered before checking the jet sizes and verifying that they seem to be fine and I don't need a change;
• Athena Full Gasket Kit + Engine Seal Kit from pjme.co.uk, which I thought would be nice even if I won't need it right now.

I plan to replace the reed cage, valves, and jets once the replacement arrives and then try to tune the carb myself and likely find some carburettor expert around me to help me once I fail.

The question I have is the following: if the change of jets and reed cage won't help, and tuning the air bolt and idle revs bolt won't fix the idle stall, what is the next thing I should check? What would be the primary suspect for idle revs engine stall?

And while we are here, is the snorkel (which seems to be the stock one) good enough for derestricted Raptor 125? According to the owner, the bike was running derestricted for six years, so the answer must be positive, but it would be nice to hear what others did to their Planets\Raptors.

 

[Remy]

You should plan a compression test before you do anything else.

Nothing wrong with your reed cage and small amount of light shining through.

Snorkel is a derestricted type. Not much you can do there.

 

[Dmitry]

Thanks a lot for the information, especially on snorkel! I've got the bike to the offroad Husqvarnas dealer, who also fixes them. He asked me about compression first as well: judging by how the bike behaves, I think it should be low. I'll write what it was soon, hopefully. Otherwise, I have another rider and another mechanic to show it to before considering myself in deep trouble.

 

[Dmitry]

Ring is melted, piston is damaged. Cylinder head likely need polishing and resurfacing.
Root cause yet unknown. Possibly could be lack of oil due to oil pump misbehaviour but I think it's not it.

 

[Remy]

The ring hasn't melted. Its piston material transfered at time of seizing.
Seizing could most likely be either not.letting the engine worm up or lean mixture.

A note. Make sure the DIY gasket (or purchased one) is not sticking in to port area as it is visible on left side of cylinder picture.

 

[Dmitry]

Thank you! I would ask the mechanics to change jets from 125/65 to 130/70 to be on the safe side and then rejet it myself If necessary.

I have three questions:
How you should warm up the engine, and how much time of wrongdoing it takes to get a seizure in case it's not warmed up properly?
How much time on a lean mixture would result in a seizure like that?
Can you please point precisely where is the problem with the gasket in the picture? I've bought an engine rubber and gasket set that would be used when reassembling, but I'm worried that I can't see the problem you mentioned.

Here are all the photos I have so far.

 

[Dmitry]

As piston and cylinder are busted and resurfacing of the cylinder costs 280 euro, I would instead buy a new cylinder kit for these money. Also con rod is loose, I'll need a replacement as well (and bearing and seal kit). Hopefully then I'll be a happy owner of the working bike which wouldn't have a seizure soon.