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Summink seriously wrong with the Engine or/and setups..... the Evo1 Tm35 can run even #300 main jet. "Equimania" even made the landspeed record in 125 Stock Class with his '95 Evo1 at Saltlake hotness.

#310 in northern Scandinavia tends to be on Rich side. but Aftermarket TMX35 #350 size would be an overkill.... about same viceversa issue compering idle jet #20 into #45.

that Pilot #20 and closing from WOT killed it, but im seriously wondering an deeper issue like "AirLeak" on intake manifold/crank seals...No matter if it doesnt Hang Rev's/idle Rev's for a while as a 1st Symphtom

Throttle slide's "CutAway" depends on Carb specs (richer or leaner function.... more or less Vacume needed for idle jet side.....".
iirc "Dellorto basics principals" carb pdf book explains this and shows some photos etc...linked on this forum too....

Engine starting with or without fully closed throttle depends various matters, like is it cold engine, is it running temp, using or not using Choke circuit. etc

if the slide has a "Medium" or smaller "CutAway" , healthy engine should start with closed throttle with using Choke circuit, from cold stand still, sea level ~+20Celsius. with clean good plug and strong sparg etc Healthy specs.

some 2T carbs at least from dellorto moped carbs, iirc, do not have slide "CutAway"....
 

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Yes, any CrankSeal or intake manifold airleak will cause running Lean. on Cagiva's the CrankCase pressure is known to sometimes PopOut crank oil seal at Magneto side.

with Cagiva, the intake manifolds are famous to perish and leak. full of minor cuts in them.....Tm35 manifolds are also relatively thin, and especially under the Jubilee clip, they are most weakest. ive seen some seriously broken ones 180degrees around under jubilee, and cracks all over on top at manifold.

better be sure than sorry. "SikaFlex 221 polyurethane compound" is Brilliant to fix/ re-coat them manifolds, that are still FixAble worth fixing.

Tm35 manifolds have been factgory NLA for like past 10years.....Some NOS have poppedup every once in a while at germany/italy. last time i bought qty:5+4 Tm35&VHSB manifolds.....

ohh and like "strgr" said, take extra notice into Choke Plunger, into its rubber tip, that it is sealing and not leaking when Choke closed.

ALSO !! Tm35 choke cable isnt same as PHBH28xx choke cable. difference in stroke lenght !!!!

Must do is also to check and measure:
-Float height
-Fuel level
-Float Grams weight
-Floats being sealed, not leaking into them weighing more Due fuel inside them...

brake fluid could soften and swallen hardened Plunger rubber tip (as a DIY tip trick). but its worth buying new Plunger if the Aftermarket TMX35 is the same as Cagiva's OEM.

ive had about 12 Tm35's as OEM evo1, due re-selling them in past and using them on my bikes.....
 

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as a side note as a info, the "stop plate" wont prevent oil seal popping out. commonly seal popsout about 180degrees and in 30~40 degree angle....

for a such oil seal the Tolerance for not to leak is 0.1mm, to be in correct angle/to be at Level.
 

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There is summink wrong at the bike SetUp if you get the Mitaka to Seize like that....
take into notice also that the Mitaka's are very very Symmetrical regarding Bore shape.

Mitaka's are not as much Conical and Oval as OEM Gilardoni's. this causes big difference on Clearence.

i could write exact 0,00/millimetres specs how they differe from eachother.

top to that Gilardoni's also prefer bigger than 0,04mm~0,05mm clearence. -> into RealLife empirical 0,06mm for Cast pistons and then its safer....

Also Mitaka has much better Honing than OEM Gilarodni's. like 3-times better. Also Port edge chamfering varies.....to Scrape of 2T oil......

Mitaka's are uber Tight like the 0,04mm, so that is exactly how they melt distruct like yours 4-corner seize-melt, if Engine SetUp is not correct (carb-airbox-exh-cts etc details)
But often what comes to Nature of 2T's nothing can save engine from fully Closing Throttle from WOT top rpm's, no matter properly setup engine or not...


What is commonly said from Stock mitaka parts regarding piston kit, is that the Stock piston rings are too soft. the piston itself is good ! iirc PJME for example changes the stock rings on the kit's. ( "Riken" was the OEM ring brand or not ? )

on past we did a lot of Beating on Mitaka parts on Sp series 6 level Cagiva 5P engine. Mitaka piston was indistructable.....
What cannot be OverLooked is the correct-safe Piston/bore clearence..........



ALSO people dont understand/realise that Aftermarket Mikuni TMX35 is very very Different Vs Cagiva factory special custom made TM(X)35.
Basically nothing is SetUp-Compere able between them.
(Wrong Slide, wrong needle, wrong pilot jet , etc)

For example, at Cagiva's own TM(X)35 , the needle is custom made and only available from Cagiva, not sold at anywhere else on Planet.

at Aftermarket TMX35 the stock needle causes stutter-hesitation etc issues. but there is 1 good aftermarket Needle to compensate the issue. but what ever you do the carb it wont be same or even close to OEM Cagiva's.
 
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