[lydanial]

OK its service time before i get out a lot.

questions, is it worth servicing myself oil, filter plugs and then get other bits checked professionally.

what actually needs doing on a major service?

if i service myself please advise on
oil, what type?
plugs type, number whether they need gapping etc.
a good filter.

anything else you can think of.

 

[macey nsr125r]

what service you going in for mate? so how many miles have you done and when was your last service at?

if its the mager one with the valves etc and you have your general knowledge of bikes then i surpose its worth a go but i wouldnt trust anyone but a professional machanic tbh.

but if its plugs, oil, filter, clean of air filter etc and general safty check
then you could do it on your own

but then again id rather pay the 130 i did and get them to do it so if anything goes wrong i can go back and shout alot until they pay for all damages and for wasting my time

 

[lydanial]

but then again id rather pay the 130 i did and get them to do it so if anything goes wrong i can go back and shout alot until they pay for all damages and for wasting my time

LMFAO, good idea!

i am not sure of the last major service, i got this bike in september and it had just had oil /filters etc changed. i did about 1000 miles before storing it in my garage. i just want to give it the main going over before the seaon really kicks off.

 

[tommyb]

Macey where did you get yours done? I need somewhere cheap to get my valves done as they need to be done at 17k and its gone past that lol.

 

[paulj]

Fook paying for simple things to be done. Plugs, filters and oil are p**s easy. If it's things like valve clearances etc, then I'd personally pay for it to be done.

 

[macey nsr125r]

Macey where did you get yours done? I need somewhere cheap to get my valves done as they need to be done at 17k and its gone past that lol.

ADT kawasaki mate in shirley (down southampton) and they done me a full monty (so they call it) for 130 which involves a full check clean all the brake calipers from brake dust etc, engine oil change and filter and if i didnt have a k&n they would of changed that.

but then when i said how much will it be for me mager service they said 350 for the works with the valves and 12 pound a shim

f*ckers

need new tyres chain and sprockets etc etc and im near to me mager service already

i could cry

 

[DynaMight]

ADT kawasaki mate in shirley (down southampton) and they done me a full monty (so they call it) for 130 which involves a full check clean all the brake calipers from brake dust etc, engine oil change and filter and if i didnt have a k&n they would of changed that.

So ?130 gets you <?25 worth of oil, a ?5 oil filter and a quick squirt of brake cleaner, the rest is a quick inspection. Anyone with general knowledge would take 1-2 hours, proper mechanic would have it done in an hour easy. Basically you're paying ?100 for that hour.

 

[macey nsr125r]

yeah pretty much mate, but then he checks thw hwole bike over a fixes what evers wrong only if its a litttle job. like my bike was wrattling so he tightened the cam chain etc.

main thing your paying for is the history of the bike, keeping it well serviced for when you go to sell it, it has a good service history???

 

[Philly46]

?130 to do little jobs you could do yourself. I drop my bike off at Cradley Kawasaki during the summer for a service, they tick off anything I've done myself and just do the rest so all in all saves myself a bit of cash.

 

[macey nsr125r]

lucky for you then, not that easy for evryone else mate

 

[rene]

service history on bikes for me personaly isent a masive thing, sure if it was brand new id want it but for 7 year old bikes not that big of deal

in fact if its brought of someone who knows what there talking about id rather that than a dealers history

 

[Philly46]

lucky for you then, not that easy for evryone else mate

To do basic maintenance and save a few hundred quid?

?20 for a Haynes manual, keep a weekend spare and jobs a good un.

 

[DynaMight]

I always keep a note of dates and mileage I've done oil/filter/plug/tyre/chain etc etc changes to show buyers what I have done.

Dealer services is only good for warranty imo.

 

[macey nsr125r]

To do basic maintenance and save a few hundred quid?

?20 for a Haynes manual, keep a weekend spare and jobs a good un.

like i said its the bikes service history in whicj im paying for and it makes me feel a hole lot better when a professional does it

 

[lydanial]

obviously i need the regulation oil/ filter but should i change the plugs?

is this a good deal, if i whack the irridiums on aswell?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAWASAKI-ZX6R-95-04-...1QQcmdZViewItem

next after a hard ride my front brakes squeel a little, new pads??

also what else should i look at doing?

shall i change all coolant?
and all brake fluid?
carb balance?

what about this case of 12 , 1 litre bottles?is this stuff any good?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SHELL-ADVANCE-ULTRA-...1QQcmdZViewItem

cant think of anything else now.

finally does anyone know how mych gap on spark plugs?

 

[tommyb]

That oil should be fine its fully synthetic, ive never had problems with fully synth oil but some complain about clutch slippage. My front brakes are also squeaking but my pads are virtually non excistant lol be getting some new ones next week aswel as a new oil filter, oil, plugs and air filter and also a carb balancer to get it all running nicely.

 

[DynaMight]

I do oil/filter every 4k miles, sparks every 8k.

I found the carbs on my 1999 ZX6R got out of sync very quickly so I did those every 4k miles too.

Iridium sparks are meant to be good, I cant say I noticed a difference but why not... you cant gap iridium spark plugs so just leave them. I've never bothered even with standard spark plugs and never had a problem.

Brake fluid if it's dirty. Coolant if you feel like it, I generally dont bother as long as proper mixture was put in last time it should be fine.

New pads should stop the squeak but sometimes just removing the pads, scraping across a smooth rough surface then putting a dab of copper grease on the back will stop it but if they're low then just replace anyway...

If you havent already then get a Haynes Manual and follow that. It'll sort you out and save loads of time if you get stuck or need hints or tips.