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· 125cc's saddest c*nt
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Been setting the valve clearances tonight and took some pics along the way to give some tips. Getting the Haynes manual is definitely recommended, it's a brilliant guide but here are a few more pics to give an idea of what to expect.

Disconnecting the temperature sensor gives a bit more play to move the radiator out the way:



Covers off:





Linty the T mark up:



And the line on the cam sprocket will be parallel with the top of the head:



Checking the exhaust valve:





And the Inlet valve:



Needed adjusting. It's a bit tight so I took the screwdriver bit from my impact driver set (awesome tool) and put a spanner on it. Another spanner on the lock nut and adjust away. Did the job.



Don't forget to check the clearances again after tightening the lock nut and make sure everything is clean before reassembly.
 

· Does not know Everything !
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Very impressive, nice and clear description and good quality pictures. Definitely sticky worthy.
 

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Would It be Possible for someone just to clear out certain "questions" regarding doing the valve clearance.

-What tools does one need to do it all from scratch. (All the tools)
-Is there a "rubber seal" (I would believe that there should be one) that needs to be replaced (get a new one) or "IF" there is one,can it be reused.
-Is it Necessary to loosen and move the Radiator in order to get more space in order to do this. (Or can it be done,if you have smallish hands..LOL)

Thank you btw for the advice and Pics that has been provided.
 

· 125cc's saddest c*nt
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
-Is it Necessary to loosen and move the Radiator in order to get more space in order to do this. (Or can it be done,if you have smallish hands..LOL)
It's not strictly necessary but in my opinion it is much easier and quicker to move it than it is to try and do it without. It's for tool space as much as hand space. One of the pieces advice I have been given is always give yourself room to work. It generally does pay off, it's better to spend a little time preparing for a job than a long time struggling with it.
 

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id agree with DEP. seal can be reused and some gasket gunk will make sure its sealed (if you've got some already)

and moving the radiator is a good idea. its very tight and fiddly at the best of times - you dont need the rad in the way too.
 

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id agree with DEP. seal can be reused and some gasket gunk will make sure its sealed (if you've got some already)

and moving the radiator is a good idea. its very tight and fiddly at the best of times - you dont need the rad in the way too.
I've tried to move/remove it once..to give it a good clean,and to straightened the fins,but as you said..it is a bit fiddly at times,so I didnt fiddled with it too much.. THANK YOU BTW ASWELL..
 

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Try to do the Clearance today..to No avail (Just caused more probs for myself...
)

Everything went well,and the Pictures,steps and procedures helped a lot that has been explained above.

The crap part came in,that the space that you work in/with is really TIGHT


I did the exhaust valve perfectly,till I got to the Intake valve,where I f**ked it up..
.
I tried to use the my impact drill bit,to hold the screw,while tightening the bolt underneath it,which made me end up letting the drill bit slip,and fell into the "engine"..I cant see the bit anywhere from the top (must have dropped down to the bottom I guess)

Is there any advice that you guys could give me in order to get it out,before I need to take it to my local Bike garage and let them strip it down to remove the freaking drill bit.??

Cheers btw.
 
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